What 113 owners told NHTSA about the 2011 Ford Focus

SEVERAL TIMES, MY BREAKS HAVE NOT RESPONDED WHILE PRESSING DOWN ON THEM, MY FOOT WILL BE TO THE GROUND AND THERE IS NOTHING. IT CAUSED MY VEHICLE TO CRASH INTO THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF ME THE FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED GOING 35 MILES AN HOUR.

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WITH LESS THAT 70000 MILES ON THE CAR MY TRANSMISSION STARTED TO GO OUT ON ME. I HAVE SINCE HAD THE TRANSMISSION REPLACED AS IT IS UNDER WARRANTY, AND LESS THAN A WEEK AFTER GETTING IT FIXED IT WAS ALREADY STARTED TO GO ON ME AND HAS GOTTEN PROGRESSIVELY WORSE OVER THE SIX MONTHS.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN FROM INSIDE THE VEHICLE, EXCEPT FOR THE FRONT PASSENGER DOOR. ALSO, THE KEY FAILED TO OPEN THE VEHICLE'S DOORS WHEN LOCKED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO FORD GROVES (1501 N KINGSHIGHWAY ST, CAPE GIRARDEAU, MO 63701) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE DOOR HANDLES AND RODS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 180,067.

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DOOR AJAR LIGHT STAYS ON CONSTANTLY EVEN WHEN THE CAR IS NOT IN USE. THE SENSOR WILL GO OFF WHILE DRIVING AND UNLOCK ALL DOORS, EVEN IF THE CHILD SAFETY FEATURE IS ACTIVATED. BECAUSE OF THIS MESSAGE THE DOME(MAP) LIGHT ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAR WILL RANDOMLY TURN ON AND OFF. THIS ALSO CAUSES THE BATTERY TO DRAIN.

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THE DOOR AJAR SENSOR WARNING LIGHT FOR MY DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR KEEPS COMING ON. THE DOOR IS CLOSED. THIS HAPPENS WHILE DRIVING AND WHEN PARKED. WITH THIS DEFECTIVE SENSOR IT ALSO SETS THE ALARM OFF EVERY 5-10 MINUTES WHILE LOCKED, ALONG WITH THE INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR LIGHTS COMING ON SPORADICALLY.

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I AM A WIDOW, I HAVE CHILDREN TO TAKE CARE OF. SO FOR SOMETHING LIKE THE IGNITION COIL TO ALL OF A SUDDEN GO BAD AND COST ME $850 IS REDICULOUS. I WAS AT WORK AND MY CAR WOULD NOT START. NO WARNING, NO NOTHING. ESPECIALLY WHEN I HAVE READ OTHERS ONLINE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. I'M BEGINNING TO WONDER IF FORD IS JUST IGNORING THIS OR IS IT A WAY FOR FORD TO MAKE MORE MONEY OFF OF INNOCENT HARD WORKING PEOPLE. I AM NOW IN DEBT BECAUSE OF THIS AND DON'T KNOW HOW I'M GOING TO GET OUT. NEEDLESS TO SAY MY CHILDREN DID NOT HAVE MUCH OF A CHRISTMAS. I WAS WARNED ABOUT BUYING A FORD AND I AM STARTING TO REGRET IT. I ALSO HAVE HAD HUB ASSEMBLY PROBLS AND NOW ALL OF A SUDDEN I NEED A MOTOR MOUNT. I GUESS THIS IS WHAT I GET FOR NOT BEING ABLE TO AFFORD A BRAND NEW CAR. SO NOW MY DAUGHTER AND I HAVE TO DRIVE AROUND IN SOMETHING TERRIFYING.

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THE REAR WHEEL BEARINGS HAD TO BE REPLACED AFTER MAKING A VERY LOUD NOISE WHEN THE CAR WAS IN MOTION, WORSENING WITH SPEED. THEY HAVE HAD TO BE REPLACED TWICE SINCE THEN AND THAT WAS JUST OVER 6 MONTHS AGO! THE MECHANIC INFORMED US THAT THERE DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE ANYTHING WRONG THAT WOULD CAUSE THEM TO KEEP WEARING OUT.

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FORD FOCUS 2011, IGNITION KEY TUMBLER FAILURE, CAN NOT START CAR. TUMBLER IN IGNITION NOT WORKING, TOLD I NEED TO REPLACE AND REPROGRAM CAR, CAN ONLY BE DONE BY DEALER. CHECKED ON LINE, THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM, NO RECALL FOUND, WHY NOT. I WAS AT THE MALL XMAS SHOPPING, HAD TO HAVE CAR TOWED.

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THE VEHICLE HANDLES HORRIBLY ON WET AND/OR ICY ROADS. WHEN STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT OR SIGN AT EVEN A VERY SLIGHT INCLINE THE TIRES HAVE TROUBLE GETTING TRACTION. THIS IS THE WORST VEHICLE FOR WET/ICY ROADS I'VE EVER DRIVEN. IT IS ALSO THE FIRST, AND MOST LIKELY THE LAST, FORD I WILL OWN.

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MY HUSBAND HAD RETURNED FROM THE STORE AND PULLED UP INTO OUR SLIGHTLY ANGLED DRIVEWAY, HE WAS CHECKING HIS RECEIPT FOR AN ERROR AND THOUGHT HE HAD THE CAR IN PARK. HE GOT OUT TO CARRY SOME BAGS UP TO THE PORCH AND WHEN HE RETURNED HE NOTICED THE CAR WAS STILL RUNNING. HE REACHED IN TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND BECAUSE IT WAS STILL IN DRIVE THE CAR STARTED ROLLING DOWN THE DRIVEWAY, HE WAS ABLE TO REACH OVER AND GET IT IN PARK BUT IT DID NOT STOP ROLLING AND CONTINUED AT A GREATER SPEED PULLING HIM PARTIALLY OUT OF THE CAR AND DRAGGING HIM RESULTING IN A FRACTURED NECK, MASSIVE BRUISING ON HIS ABDOMEN AND DUE TO THE SHOCK OF THE INCIDENT KIDNEY FAILURE FOR THREE DAYS. WE REALIZE IT WAS HIS FAULT FOR NOT TURNING THE CAR OFF AND NOT HAVING IT IN PARK. MY BROTHER-IN-LAW CAME OVER IN HIS DODGE AND TRIED THE SAME THING AND HIS TRUCK IMMEDIATELY WENT IN TO PARK, IF HE OPENS HIS DOOR WHILE THE VEHICLE IS RUNNING EVEN SLIGHTLY THE VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY GOES INTO PARK. WE HAVE ALWAYS BEEN FORD VEHICLE FANS BUT THIS IS HAVING US RETHINK OUR DECISION ON A NEW CAR. WE THINK WE KNOW WHY IT DID NOT STOP WHEN HE PUT IT IN PARK WHILE IT WAS ROLLING BUT THERE IS NOT A SAFE GUARD TO PREVENT THESE KIND OF ACCIDENTS ARE UNCALLED FOR. IF A YOUNG CHILD WERE TO GET IN THIS VEHICLE AND TAKE IT OUT OF DRIVE THERE COULD BE HORRIBLE CONSEQUENCES. THE CAR ROLLED ALL THE WAS DOWN OUR DRIVEWAY INTO THE STREET (APP. 60 FT DRIVEWAY), HE WAS STUCK IN BETWEEN THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR, AFRAID HE WAS GOING TO GET RUN OVER. HE WAS FINALLY ABLE TO FREE HIMSELF AFTER APP. 40 FT. MY GRANDSON HAS A FORD EDGE AND IT DID THE SAME THING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT SHOULD BE ADDRESSED IMMEDIATELY. IF THE ANGLE OF THE DRIVEWAY HADN'T BEEN WHAT IT WAS I AM SURE IT WOULD HAVE STARTED ROLLING BEFORE MY HUSBAND GOT OUT OF THE VEHICLE.

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2011 FORD FOCUS SE TRANSMISSION PULLING AND JERKING, CAUSING THE TIRES TO VIBRATE WHILE DRIVING. UPON FIRST ACCELERATING BEFORE MOTOR WARMS UP, THE CAR SOUNDS LIKE A TRUCK. IT IS EXTREMELY LOUD. THE CAR HAS TO BE MOVING FOR AWHILE BEFORE THE LOUD NOISE DECREASES SOME, BUT THE NOISE CONTINUES.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 FORD FOCUS. WHEN THE DRIVER WAS ATTEMPTING TO UNLOCK THE DOORS, THE FRONT LOCKS AUTOMATICALLY LIFTED UP, BUT THE REAR LOCKS REMAINED INSIDE THE DOORS. ALL FOUR DOORS WERE NOT ABLE TO BE OPENED. THE DRIVER ATTEMPTED TO LIFT THE REAR LOCKS, BUT THE KNOBS FOR THE DOOR LOCKS WERE LOCATED. THE DRIVER WAS UNABLE TO MANUALLY LIFT THE KNOBS DUE TO THEM BEING INSIDE THE DOOR PANEL. THE DRIVER HAD TO ROLL DOWN THE WINDOWS IN ORDER TO GET OUT OF THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER (WINDELL FORD) WHO INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THERE WAS NO RECALL ON THE VEHICLE. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT ALL LOCKS FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE FACT THAT THE LOCKS COULD NOT BE MANUALLY DISENGAGED WAS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 92,046.

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WHEN THE CAR IS IDLING WHETHER IN PARK OR DRIVE, IT WILL LOSE POWER AND I NOTICE THE RPM NEEDLE BOUNCES ALL OVER THE PLACE. I HAVE HAD THE CAR COMPLETELY DIE ON ME 3 DIFFERENT TIMES AS I HAVE STARTED TO ACCELERATE. LUCKILY ALL 3 TIMES WERE WHEN I WAS LEAVING A DRIVE-THRU AND WASN'T IN HEAVY TRAFFIC. IT WILL LURCH AND SPUTTER WHEN IN DRIVE AND THE BRAKE IS APPLIED. I TOOK IT TO OUR LOCAL FORD DEALERSHIP WHERE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE NEW IN 2010 AND THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT CHECKED TO SEE IF IT WAS ON THE RECALL LIST BECAUSE IT WAS SHOWING ALL OF THE SAME SYMPTOMS OF SEVERAL OTHERS THAT HAD A THROTTLE BODY RECALL AND I WAS LUCKY IT HADN'T LOST POWER GOING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AT 70 MPH LIKE SOME OF THE OTHERS HAD. WHEN THEY CHECKED MY VIN IT DIDN'T HAVE A RECALL BUT I WAS TOLD THAT I WOULD HAVE TO HAVE THE THROTTLE BODY REPLACED AND IT WOULD COST AROUND $600!! MY 2011 FOCUS ONLY HAS 48,000 MILES ON IT AND I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHY IF IT HAS THE EXACT SAME MALFUNCTION AS THE RECALLED MODELS, THAT THE 2011 IS NOT A PART OF THAT RECALL?? I WOULD EXPECT A CAR TO BE BETTER MADE TO LAST A LITTLE LONGER THAN THIS! I HAVE HAD TO HAVE THE MOTOR IN THE REAR WINDOW WORKED ON AND CLIPS REPLACED TWICE WITHIN THE FIRST 2 YEARS I HAD THE CAR BUT I LOVE MY FOCUS SO I THINK FORD SHOULD STEP UP AND FIX THE THROTTLE BODY ISSUE NO MATTER WHAT MODEL OF VEHICLE IT IS ON!

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR LATCH FAILED AND THE DOOR AJAR WARNING SENSOR ILLUMINATED. THE FAILURE PREVENTED ANY OF THE DOORS FROM LOCKING AND THE CONTACT COULD NOT SEE THE FUEL GAUGE OR MILEAGE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE PAWL SPRINGS AND UNIT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 16V643000 (LATCHES/LOCKS/LINKAGES:DOORS:LATCH).THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 46,889. UPDATED 08/23/17*LJ *CN

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THE DOOR LOCK ON THE DRIVERS DOOR WHEN USING KEY FOB DOES ALWAYS UNLOCK, WHEN LOCKS ITS OWN AT 10MPH THEN YOU TRY TO GET OUT SOME DRIVING HAS BE WRENCHED WITH HANDLE. PASSENGER DOOR BEHIND THE DRIVER LOCKS ITSELF AT 10MPH, STAYS LOCKED, CANNOT BE OPENED BY HANDLE EVEN AFTER CAR OFF, THE DOOR PULL CANNOT BE PULLED UP TO UNLOCK THE DOOR, MY DAUGHTER HAS BEEN USING OTHER DOOR FOR YEARS TO GET IN AND OUT BECAUSE WE CANNOT GET THAT DOOR UNLOCKED. IT WILL NOT UNLOCK USING KEY FOB OR FROM MAIN DOOR INSIDE VEHICLE. THE CAR HAS ALWAYS BEEN LIKE THIS SINCE WE BOUGHT IT NEW. HAS BEEN TO THE FORD DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES AND THEY CANNOT FIND THE PROBLEM, IT THEN WENT OUT OF WARRANTY SO WE NEVER WENT BACK.

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"TAKATA RECALL" WE HAVE ALREADY HAD TO REPLACE ONE OF THE SEAT BELTS BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT LATCH AND ALSO THE PASENGER DOOR HAS ISSUES WITH LOCKING AND UNLLOCKING. IT WORKS OCCASSIONALLY BUT NOT ALWAYS. THE 2012 FOCUS WAS REACALLED FOR THIS ISSUE AND 2011 SHOULD BE TOO.

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MY RIGHT REAR DOOR FLEW OPEN WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION AS I WAS TURNING ON TO A CITY HIGHWAY NEAR MY HOME. LUCKILY, I WAS CLOSE ENOUGH THAT I MADE IT HOME SAFELY, HOWEVER THE DOOR WOULDN'T LATCH AT ALL AFTER THIS INCIDENT. WHEN I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP WHERE I NORMALLY HAVE MY CAR SERVICED, THEY SAID THERE ARE MANY RECALLS FOR THIS TYPE OF PROBLEM WITH MANY FORD MODELS, MY MODEL INCLUDED, HOWEVER MY CAR DID NOT QUALIFY FOR THE RECALL BASED ON THE VIN NUMBER AND THAT IT WAS ONE YEAR OLDER THAN THE OTHER MODELS THAT QUALIFIED FOR THE RECALL. THEY COULDN'T GET IT SCHEDULED TO REPAIR THE DOOR LATCH FOR APPROXIMATELY TWO WEEKS, AND OBVIOUSLY IT WAS UNSAFE TO DRIVE WITHOUT THIS PROBLEM BEING FIXED. I ENDED UP TAKING IT TO A DIFFERENT CAR SERVICE COMPANY WHO CONFIRMED IT WAS DEFINITELY A PROBLEM WITH THE RIGHT REAR DOOR LATCH, AND THAT IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED.

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TRANSMISSION SHIFTS HARD AS YOU DRIVE WITH CRUISE CONTROL ON FOR NO APPARENT REASON.

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EXCESSIVE TIRE WEAR. WENT TO ROTATE TIRES AND FOUND WEAR BANDS SHOWING. LESS THAN 19,000 MILES ON 60,000 MILE TIRES. ORIGINAL TIRES WORE OUT FAST, AND THOUGHT IT TO BE PREVIOUS OWNER OR CHEAP TIRES. WAS ABLE TO REPLACE ON TIRE WARRANTY, BUT FAILURE WAS IMMINENT WAS DOWN TO STEEL BANDS ON INSIDE OF WHEEL. PER ISSUES ON INTERNET FORUMS, WHY IS THIS BEING OVERLOOKED?? DO I HAVE TO FRICKEN DIE BEFORE SOMETHING IS DONE?? AT $110 A POP PER TIRE AT A MINIMUM, THE BURDEN ON DRIVERS BECAUSE THIS IS OVERLOOKED IS OVERWHELMING. IS ANYTHING EVER GOING TO BE DONE??

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HEADREST ANGLE CAUSES NECK AND BACK PAINS. I'M ONLY 5'5" AND MY WIFE IS 5'4" THE HEADREST LEANS TOO FAR FORWARD GIVING US POOR SUPPORT AND STRAINS OUR NECK, BACK, AND ARMS BECAUSE IT FORCES OUR HEAD TO CONSTANTLY BE PUSHED FORWARD. REMEDIED THIS BY TURNING THE ENTIRE HEADREST BACKWARDS. POOR DECISION BY NHTSA TO MAKE IT A REGULATION BASED ON WHIPLASH STUDY WITHOUT CONSIDERING 99.99% WE ARE JUST NORMALLY DRIVING.

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SINCE NEW THIS CAR HAS BEEN EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS TO DRIVE ON SLICK ROADS. THE REAR END ROUTINELY STEPS OUT OR SLIDES OUT UNEXPECTEDLY EVEN WHEN DRIVING IN A STRAIGHT LINE. EVEN ON DRY PAVEMENT THE REAR END HAS A SENSATION OF STEPPING OUT WHEN CORNERING. THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN RE-ALIGNED BY THE DEALER TWICE BUT THE PROBLEM REMAINS. THE PROBLEM OCCURRED WITH THE OEM TIRES AS WELL AS REPLACEMENT PIRELLI TIRES. THIS HAS BEEN AN ON-GOING ISSUE SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS NEW AND EVERY WINTER SINCE. AS DESCRIBED ABOVE THE HANDLING ISSUE IS ALSO ON DRY PAVEMENT IN SUMMER, JUST NOT AS DANGEROUS THEN.

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THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW BUT THE TRANSMISSION HAS ALWAYS SHIFTED ROUGH. THE DEALER SAID IT WAS BECAUSE FORD HAD REDESIGNED THE TRANSMISSION SO IT WOULD SHIFT BETTER AND BE MORE FUEL EFFICIENT. EVEN THOUGH WE COMPLAINED THE DEALER SAID THERE WAS NOTHING THAT THEY COULD DO. CONSEQUENTLY, THIS PROBLEM HAS EFFECTED THE CARS OVERALL PERFORMANCE AND HAS NOW BECOME SO BAD THAT THE CAR IS DIFFICULT TO DRIVE. THE TRANSMISSION SHIFTS ROUGH, JUMPS OR LAUNCHES OUT , SHAKES, HAS HESITATION AND EVEN ROLLS BACK IF YOU ARE ON A HILL. CONSEQUENTLY, THE CAR SEEMS UNSAFE TO DRIVE AS IT FEELS AT TIMES LIKE THE CAR MIGHT JOLT OUT BECAUSE OF THE ROUGH SHIFTING. WHEN THE CAR SHIFTS ROUGH AT HIGH SPEEDS IT TENDS TO PULL IT TO ONE SIDE.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE UNDERCARRIAGE OF THE VEHICLE WAS CORRODED AND WATER ENTERED THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

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MY VEHICLE SLIPS WHEN CHANGING GEARS..FIRST STARTED WHEN SHIFTING FROM 1ST TO 2ND..IT'S AUTOMATIC TRANS. THAT WAS YESTERDAY NOW IT STALLS GOING INTO ANY GEAR

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 FORD FOCUS. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE DASHBOARD CRACKED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. IN ADDITION, WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS UNDERGOING AN OIL CHANGE, IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE ENTIRE REAR WINDOW NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE VIN WAS INVALID. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,369. UPDATED 07/12/16*LJ *CN

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