What 585 owners told NHTSA about the 2013 Chevrolet Cruze Limited

STABILITRAK CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TURNED ON CAR OVERHEATED AND THE CAR SLOWED DOWN AND TURNED OFF WHILE ON THE HIGHWAY IN COULDN'T RESTART THE CAR HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY WANTED TO CHARGE FOR REPAIRS WHICH WE ARE NOT GOING TO PAY FOR MANUFACTURING DEFECTS I HAVE A 2013 CHEVY CRUISE.

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ABOUT A YEAR AFTER BUYING MY 2013 CHEVY CRUZE THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW FELL DOWN AND OUT OF THE TRACK. WE TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY REPAIRED IT UNDER WARRANNTY. NOW MY CRUZE IS 3 YEARS AND 2 MONTHS OLD WITH 21,000 MILES ON IT AND THE PASSENGER WINDOW HAS DONE THE SAME THING. MY WARRANTY RAN OUT 2 MONTHS AGO EVEN THOUGHT THERE ARE ONLY 21,000 MILES ON IT I HAVE TO PAY FOR THE REPAIR. BOTH TIMES THIS HAPPENED WE WERE GETTING IN THE VEHICLE AND CLOSED THE DOOR, ROLLED DOWN THE WINDOW AND THE WINDOW FELL TO THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR AND WONT GO UP.

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VEHICLE ACCIDENT WITH ANOTHER VEHICLE - AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY IN ACCIDENT. DRIVER HIT HEAD ON STEERING WHEEL. (ALL AIRBAGS DEPLOYED ON OTHER VEHICLE (AUDI S4.)) TOLD BY INSURANCE ADJUSTOR HE TYPICALLY DOES NOT SEE AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT ON CHEVY CRUIZE AS THE SENSORS ARE HIGH ON THE INTERNAL FRAME.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH AND ACCELERATING, THE TACHOMETER SHOWED THAT THE RPM WAS RED-LINED; HOWEVER, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO RESPOND. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED. ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, WHILE STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT WITH THE BRAKE PEDAL DEPRESSED, THE VEHICLE LUNGED FORWARD. THE FAILURE RECURRED SEVERAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 52,719.

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ALL THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS GOING OFF FOR NO REASON. KEY STUCK IN IGNITION AND CAR WILL NOT START. JUST LIKE MOST OTHER COMPLAINTS WITH THIS CAR MOSTLY ELECTRICAL. I JUST GOT THIS CAR FOR MY 16 YEAR OLD DAUGHTER. VERY SCARY THAT THERE IS NOT A RECALL ON THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND THE DEALERS DOES NOT KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON VERY DISAPPOINTING. AND THIS HAS HAPPENED SITTING STILL AND IN MOTION LIKE THE CAR HAS A MIND OF ITS OWN.

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BRAKE PEDAL BECOMES DIFFICULT OR IMPOSSIBLE TO COMPRESS RESULTING IN DIFFICULTY BRINGING THE VEHICLE TO A COMPLETE STOP. SEEMS TO OCCUR AT LOW SPEEDS. THERE HAVE BEEN 4-5 OCCURRENCES IN THE LAST 3-4 MONTHS. BRINGING VEHICLE TO DEALER FOR EVALUATION. CAR HAS 45000 MILES.

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LATELY I'VE BEEN NOTICING THE TOUCH SCREEN RADIO TO FLICKER AND COMPLETELY LOSE POWER. I FIGURE IT WAS JUST A GLITCH WITH THE ALL THE TECHNOLOGY THAT THIS CAR HAS. WELL, THE SERVICE ANTITHEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM CONTINUES TO COME ON, BUT GOES AWAY. CAR IS FINE. LAST SATURDAY MY CAR WOULDN'T START UNTIL THE 3RD TRY. THE CAR COMPLETELY SHUT OFF, ABSOLUTELY NO POWER, KEY WOULDN'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. AFTER 15 MINUTES IT STARTED, THE RADIO FLICKER. ON MY WAY TO WORK, THE RADIO KEPT CUTTING OUT THEN AS I WAS SLOWING DOWN TO TURN, MY STEERING AND BRAKES GAVE OUT, NEARLY CAUSING A HUGE COLLISION! THIS SEEMS TO BE A VERY COMMON THING WITH THE 2013 CRUZE LT. CHEVY NEEDS TO DO SOMETHING! I DO NOT FEEL SAFE IN THIS CAR ANYMORE! NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW THE PROBLEM? IT'S LIFE OR DEATH HERE, I TRAVEL A LOT FOR WORK AND GET ON BUSY HIGHWAYS. HOW MANY INJURIES OR DEATHS DO YOU NEED TO CORRECT THIS MAJOR PROBLEM?

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THIS CHEV CRUZ RAMMED MY HONDA 2010 CIVIC AT 40+MPH IN THE RIGHT REAR QUARTER PANEL. THE CIVIC WAS TURNING LEFT INTO THE INTERSECTION AND WAS TRAVELING AT APPROXIMATELY 10 MPH. THE CIVIC DEPLOYED 4 AIRBAGS AND DEEMED A TOTAL LOSS WHILE THE CRUZ DID NOT DEPLOY AN AIRBAG AND HAD SLIGHT DAMAGE TO THE FRONT. I DON'T UNDERSTAND THIS AND HAVE INCLUDED PICTURES AND WOULD LIKE YOUR INVESTIGATION AND OPINION IF THE 2013 CRUZ'S AIRBAG IS DEFECTIVE.

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MY 2013 CHEVY CRUZE ALMOST GOT ME IN A REALLY BAD ACCIDENT. IT STARTED WHEN DRIVING ABOUT 20 MPH (TRANSMISSION IS IN D) THE CAR STARTED TO LOOSE POWER FELT LIKE ITS STALLING, RPM DROPPED THEN SUDDENLY STARTED GOING INTO REVERSE WHILE THE TRANSMISSION IS STILL ON D I ALMOST HIT THE CAR BEHIND ME. I STEPPED ON MY BREAKS AND I PUT THE TRANSMISSION IN PARK BUT THE CAR SURGED FORWARD IN WHICH I ALMOST HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. I'VE TAKEN THIS CAR SEVERAL TIMES TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR TRANSMISSION SHIFTING PROBLEMS BUT I FELT THAT IT WAS NOT COMPLETELY FIXED. THE DEALER ALWAYS TELLS ME THAT THERES NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. BUT NOW THAT I'VE ALMOST HIT 2 CARS YESTERDAY WITHOUT ANY REASON, I FEEL THAT THE CAR IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND MY WIFE EVEN TOLD ME THAT SHE WILL NEVER DRIVE THIS CAR AGAIN. IT'S JUST SAD TO BE HAVING THIS MANY PROBLEMS ON A CAR WITH LESS THAN 50K MILESYESTERDAY MY 2013 CHEVY CRUZE ALMOST GOT ME IN A REALLY BAD ACCIDENT. IT STARTED WHEN DRIVING ABOUT 20 MPH (TRANSMISSION IS IN D) THEN THE CAR STARTED TO LOOSE POWER FELT LIKE ITS STALLING THE RPM DROPPED THEN SUDDENLY STARTED GOING INTO REVERSE WHILE THE TRANSMISSION IS STILL ON D I ALMOST HIT THE CAR BEHIND ME. SO I STEPPED ON MY BREAKS THEN TRY TO SWITCH GEARS ALL OF A SUDDEN THE CAR STARTED TO GO FORWARD EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS IN PARK IN WHICH THIS TIME I ALMOST HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. I'VE TAKEN THIS CAR SEVERAL TIMES TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR TRANSMISSION SHIFTING PROBLEMS BUT I FELT THAT IT WAS NOT COMPLETELY FIXED. THE DEALER ALWAYS TELLS ME THAT THERES NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. BUT NOW THAT I'VE ALMOST HIT 2 CARS YESTERDAY WITHOUT ANY REASON, I FEEL THAT THE CAR IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND MY WIFE EVEN TOLD ME THAT SHE WILL NEVER DRIVE THIS CAR AGAIN. IT'S JUST SAD TO BE HAVING THIS MANY PROBLEMS ON A CAR WITH LESS THAN 50K MILES

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CAR'S ENGINE STOPPED RUNNING UNEXPECTEDLY DUE TO BLOWN FUEL PUMP FUSE WHILE TRAVELING AT 30 M.P.H IN CLEAR WEATHER, DURING THE DAY, ON PAVED DOWNTOWN ORLANDO STREET. WHEN ENGINE DIED, LOST POWER STEERING AND POWER BREAKS, VERY DIFFICULT TO CONTROL AND ALMOST GOT INTO AN ACCIDENT. DEALER DIAGNOSED THE ISSUE AS A COIL PACK PROBLEM AND REPLACED THE COIL PACK AT A COST OF $534.00. I AM NOT SURE HOW THE COIL PACK THAT HOLDS THE SPARK PLUGS WOULD CAUSE THE FUEL PUMP FUSE TO BLOW.

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2013 CEVY CRUZE RECEIVING "SERVICE SIDE DETECTION SYSTEM" MESSAGE WHEN TAKEN TO DEALERSHIP WAS INFORMED THAT DUE TO FAULTY MODULE DESIGN WATER GETS INTO MODULE ANS SIDE DETECTION SYSTEM WILL NO LONGER WORKED DUE TO THE FACT CAR WAS JUST OUT OF WARRANTY WAS QUOTED $700+ TO FIX.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 25 MPH,THE VEHICLE SLOWED DOWN AND DID NOT ACCELERATE. WHEN THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO BACK OUT OF THE GARAGE, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT MOVE OCCASIONALLY. AN UNKNOWN WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE FAILURE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED AND THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 12,000.

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2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE ELECTRICAL HAZARD WHICH HAPPENS MOSTLY DURING THE RAIN OR WET ROADS OCCASIONALLY WHILE DRY. MAIN PROBLEM RADIO POWER AND DASH POWER CUT IN AND OUT AND OR FLUCTUATE WHILE DRIVING AND OR APPLYING BRAKES. THE ELECTRONIC POWER STEERING WILL, MOST OF THE TIME, CUT IN AND OUT ALSO WHILE TURNING TURNING KEY OFF AND ON AGAIN WHILE STATIONARY MAY FOR A SHORT TIME FIX THIS PROBLEM HOWEVER IT IS NOT A PERM ANY SOULUTION ONLY TEMPORARY AND MY ALSO RESULT IN A TOTAL NO POWER/ NO START CONDITION FOR THE VEHICAL POSSIBLE CAUSE IS LEAK IN THE CAR OR SHIELD IS NOT PROPERLY PROTECTION ELECTRONICS/WIRING ON THE VEHICAL

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SINCE PURCHASE OF THE VEHICLE BRAND NEW IN 2013, CLUTCH HAS REPEATEDLY SMELLED LIKE BURNING CLUTCH AT RANDOM TIMES WHILE DRIVING IN 5TH AND 6TH GEAR AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. THE DEALERSHIPS CLAIM THIS IS NORMAL. AT ABOUT 50K MILES WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY AT 60MPH IN 6TH GEAR FOR A PERIOD OF ABOUT 30 MINUTES, I STARTED SMELLING THE CLUTCH BURNING EVEN THOUGH I WASN'T SHIFTING AND DIDN'T HAVE MY FOOT ON THE CLUTCH. WHEN IT CAME TIME TO EXIT THE FREEWAY AND SWITCH GEARS THE CLUTCH WENT TO THE FLOOR AND I COULDN'T SHIFT INTO OTHER GEARS. I HAD TO PULL OVER AND TAKE MY CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP BY SHIFTING WHEN THE GEARS SYNCED. THE DEALERSHIP, KEYS CHEVROLET, IN VAN NUYS, TOLD ME I WAS RIDING THE CLUTCH AND CAUSED IT TO MELT AND WOULDN'T LISTEN TO ME ABOUT WHAT REALLY HAPPENED. MY LAST VEHICLE WAS A 1997 VW JETTA AND I TOOK THE ORIGINAL CLUTCH TO 157K MILES BEFORE TRADING IN FOR THIS CHEVY AND THE CLUTCH WAS STILL GOOD. I'VE BEEN A VALET FOR YEARS AND AN AUCTION COORDINATOR, I DON'T RIDE THE CLUTCH AND I CAN DRIVE ANY VEHICLE PROFESSIONALLY. THE 2013 CHEVY CRUZE LS HAS PROBLEMS. AFTER LOOKING ON THE CRUZETALK FORUMS, MANY MEMBERS HAVE FOUND THAT THE AMOUNT OF TRANSMISSION FLUID CHEVROLET PUTS INTO THEIR TRANSMISSIONS, ABOUT 2 QUARTS, IS NOT ENOUGH FOR 5TH AND 6TH GEAR AND THEY RECOMMEND PUTTING IN 2.5 QUARTS. CHEVROLET DENIES THERE IS A PROBLEM EVEN THOUGH THEY CAUSED MY CLUTCH TO MELT AND COST ME $1,800 TO FIX IT.

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STARTING AT 20-30K MILES, SERVICE STABILITRAK WOULD COME ON AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WOULD BLINK FOR 30 SECONDS. AFTER SHUTTING OF THE CAR THE SERVICE LIGHT WOULD GO OFF. EACH TIME I TOOK IT TO A DEALERSHIP THE CODE WAS CLEAR AND THEY WEREN'T ABLE TO FIND OUT WHAT WAS WRONG. I GOT CHARGED FOR $180 FOR CHECKING UP AND NOT HAVING A PROBLEM ONCE. ALL THE OTHER TIMES I BROUGHT IN THE VEHICLE THEY FOUND SOMETHING WRONG AND DIDN'T CHARGE ME. FINALLY OVER THE COUPLE YEARS I OWNED THE VEHICLE AND NOW AT 80K MILES, THE SERVICE STABILITRAK LIGHT HAD BEEN COMING ON MORE AND MORE, I FINALLY GOT IT TO COME ON AND GOT AN APPOINTMENT RIGHT AWAY. I TOOK IT IN AND THEY TOOK 2 DAYS TO FIND OUT THAT ALL MY SPARK PLUGS AND MY COIL PACK WAS RUSTED AND CORRODED. IT COST $700. I LIVE IN CALIFORNIA THERE IS NO SALT ON THE ROADS AND I DON'T LIVE BY THE OCEAN. THIS SHOULD NOT HAVE HAPPENED.

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ALL THE WHEEL HUBS WENT BAD AT 40K MILES. THEY ALL MADE VERY LOUD VIBRATIONS WHILE DRIVING AT SPEEDS BETWEEN 25-75. THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO LAST 300K. NOT COVERED UNDER ANY WARRANTY.

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WHILE DRIVING, THE RADIO SCREEN SHUTS OFF AND ON, SERVICE STABILITRAK WARNING COMES ON FOR 2 SECONDS THEN GOES AWAY. WHILE PARKED, THE TRUNK OPENED AUTOMATICALLY TWICE. DEALERSHIP RESET THE ELECTRICAL AND THE PROBLEM IS STILL OCCURRING. BASED ON MANY OTHER COMPLAINS AND THE PROBLEM HAS NOT BEEN RESOLVED, THIS VEHICLE IS A LEMON. I WANT MY MONEY BACK!

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STEERING LOCKED UP WHILE DRIVING DOWN ROAD. CAUSING AN ACCIDENT. WHILE DRIVING AT ABOUT 35MPH. STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP ON ME AND I COULD NOT TURN AT A CURVE CAUSING ME TO SLAM ON BRAKES AND SLID OFF OF A DIRT ROAD INTO A DITCH AND TREE LINED AREA. DO HAVE POLICE REPORT AS WELL.

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I WAS TURNING WHEN THE INFORMATION CENTER WENT BLANK AND THE SERVICE POWER STEERING LIGHT CAME ON. IT BECAME VERY DIFFICULT TO STEER THE CAR. I PULLED OVER, TURNED THE CAR OFF, LOOKED UNSET THE HOOD. WHEN I RESTARTED IT WAS FINE. SPORADICALLY OVER THE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS THE INFO CENTER WOULD BLIP OUT AND THE SERVICE STABILITRAK LIGHT WOULD COME ON. THE DEALER COULD NEVER REPLICATE THE ISSUE. IT NEVER INVOLVED THE STEERING UNTIL NOW.

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THE CARS RADIO SCREEN WILL GO OUT AND THE STABILI CHECK COMES ON IT HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES AND SOMETIMES WITH THAT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON IT HAS HAPPENS ON ALL ROADS HIGHWAYS AND CITY ROADS IN MOTION AND WHEN STOPPED HAVE HAD AN INCIDENT WHEN THE CAR WOULD NOT TURN ON NOTHING WOULD WORK NOT EVEN THE LOCKS FROM INSIDE THE CAR HAVE HAD A LOT OF ISSUES WITH THIS CAR OTHER THAN JUST THIS AND I HAVE NOT EVEN HAD IT A YEAR

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 50 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS BEING DRIVEN IN A DARK ROAD AND AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS, IT WAS ABLE TO RESTART. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED AND THE PARKING ASSIST SERVICE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER, WHO REPLACED THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL CABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT A WEEK LATER, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START AND WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER, WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE LEFT DRIVER'S SIDE REAR PARKING ASSIST MODULE HAD WATER IN IT AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

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INTERMITTENTLY THE ANTI-THEFT LIGHT GOES ON, WITHOUT WARNING AT AN HIGH SPEEDS OR WHEN PARKED AND SHUTS DOWN ALL SYSTEMS, IMMOBILIZING THE CAR. THIS INCLUDES THE RADIO, STEERING, MOTOR. TWO DAYS AGO I WAS DRIVING AND THIS HAPPENED, THE CAR SHUT DOWN, I COULDN'T STEER OR DRIVE THE CAR, A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION. THIS HAS ALSO HAPPENED WHEN TRYING TO START THE CAR, THE ANT-THEFT SYSTEM SHUTS DOWN THE CAR. THERE IS NO WAY TO KNOW WHEN THIS WILL HAPPEN. WHEN TAKEN TO AUTO DEALER, THE CAR WORKS FINE. THE CAR HAS 66,000 MILES. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT LEAST 6 TIMES, BUT THE LAST ONE WAS THE WORST, TRAVELLING AT HIGH SPEED AND LOSING CONTROL OF THE CAR. WHAT HAPPENED IS SIMILAR TO WHAT HAPPENED WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH IN COBALTS WHERE THE CAR JUST STOPPED, THAT IS PRETTY MUCH WHAT HAPPENED WITH ME.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED, THE VEHICLE LOST POWER. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, BUT THE VEHICLE HESITATED BEFORE ACCELERATING. IN ADDITION, WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IDLING, THE ABS AND MULTIPLE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE FAILURE RECURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 42,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

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IN A CONVERSATION WITH THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT STEVE RAYMAN OF SMYRNA, GA HE SAID THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE CAUSED THE PROBLEMS WITH THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, GAUGES, AND THE STEERING WHEEL JERKING TO THE LEFT. I CHOSE TO CONTACT GENERAL MOTORS BECAUSE I JUST COULD NOT BELIEVE A NEGATIVE CABLE COULD CAUSE SUCH PROBLEMS. AS MENTIONED EARLIER, GM PERSONNEL TOLD ME THAT THREE REMEDIES MADE UP SPECIAL COVERAGE 14311' 1, NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE NEEDS REPLACEMENT. 2. VOLTAGE REGULATOR NEEDS ADJUSTMENT 3. A SCREW NEEDS TO BE TIGHTENED. IN A SECOND CONVERSATION WITH STEVE RAYMAN PERSONNEL AND GM, BOTH SAID IT WAS THE CABLE AND NOT THE VOLTAGE REGULATORS. THE CAR HAD BEEN IN MY GARAGE FOR THE LAST FEW DAYS WITH A DEAD BATTERY. THIS MORNING I JUMP-STARTED THE VEHICLE; SO, WE CAN ASSUME THE ALTERNATOR WAS WORKING PROPERLY BECAUSE THE CAR CONTINUES TO RUN AFTER DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY CABLES. I DROVE TO THE STORE IN ORDER TO PURCHASE AND REPLACE THE BATTERY I NOTICED THE BATTERY VOLTAGE WAS READING 15.1 VOLTS. AFTER REPLACING THE BATTERY, I WAS RETURNING HOME AND NOTICED THE BATTERY VOLTAGE FLUCTUATED FROM 14.7 WHILE IDLING TO 14.8 WHILE DRIVING. MY QUESTION TO YOU THE ALTERNATOR APPEARS TO WORKING CORRECTLY BY PROVIDING ELECTRICAL POWER TO OPERATE THE CAR WHILE USING A DEAD BATTERY. IF THERE WERE A POWER FLUCTUATION, WOULD IT BE REASONABLE TO ASSUME THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR COULD BE THE PROBLEM. COULD ERRATIC VOLTAGE CAUSE THE INSTRUMENTS TO GO HAYWIRE AND COULD LEAD TO THE CAR'S ENGINE TURNING OFF? COULD SUCH AN OCCURRENCE CAUSE A CATASTROPHE ACCIDENT AND RISK THE LIVE OF ALL VEHICLE OCCUPANTS?

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE WINDOWS STARTED TO FOG UP AND THE CONTACT NOTICED THAT THE BLOWER MOTOR FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BLOWER MOTOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 43,000.

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