What 731 owners told NHTSA about the 2017 Hyundai Elantra Gt

Started having intermittent misfires on various cylinders, specifically cylinder 3. (Code P0303) This would mainly cause the engine to stall, or idle. No accidents or injuries to report, but having a car stall out at 80 MPH on the freeway is certainly scary as hell. Just frustration and possible damage to other parts of the engine (spark plugs and some wiring). Took vehicle into local auto shop where they reproduced the problem, but informed me of TSB 20-FL-001H, which can only be fixed by a Hyundai dealership due to the ECM reprogramming and the proprietary nature of the tool to perform that. As such I have taken the vehicle to a Hyundai Dealership where, again, they were able to find and diagnose the problem, as well as determine the spark plugs were likely fouled by the known-faulty ignition coil packs. This is the third time in 75,000 miles I've replaced them.

NHTSA ODI 11478410

Bad Ignition Colis Poor Fuel Economy: if you notice that your car is getting less mileage from a full tank than normal, this could mean that you have a bad ignition coil. This takes place because, when your, spark plugs aren’t getting a certain power, the system will try to compensate by taking more fuel. Hard Starts And Stalling: the ignition needs to spark at just the right time for the engine to start and a vehicle to run. If an ignition coil is malfunctioning and not delivering the required voltage to the spark plugs, you will find it hard to start the engine. Misfiring Engine: A malfunctioning ignition coil will cause your vehicle to misfire when you accelerate. In some other cases, a misfire could cause your vehicle to shut down while you are driving

NHTSA ODI 11477586

This is just to inform the issue that I faced with my car, Hyundai Elantra 2017. The incident happened twice. I was driving once on an interstate, luckily was driving very slow (due to traffic), when I accelerated a from a halt position the car started to jerk and the engine light came up and the car stopped. I then took the car on the shoulder and turned on the car after 5minutes, luckily the light went away and was able to drive back home slowly and safely without any problem then. Thought it's just a one off situation. This again happened when I was driving in the city; Stopped at a signal and was starting from stop position on a signal when the engine light shows up again and car started to jerk again, with that on I slowly drove 1 mile back to home. The next working day I took it to the dealership to get the car checked. The service center said that they will have to replace 4 spark plugs, 4 Coils, and the driver belt. I got that replaced and got the car back finally after 2 weeks. It was disappointing to hear that warranty didn't cover anything. My car is 5.5 years old and 61,000 miles only and the dealership and Hyundai USA declined the request to cover any of the charges saying it's out of warranty. (i.e. just 1000 miles outside the limit of 60K and 6 months outside the window of 5years). Today I just wanted to share the experience that I had and that just at 61000 miles, it gave what seemed to be a big problem with the powertrain and at that time felt unsafe to drive.

NHTSA ODI 11473728

1) The transmission has a delay in shifting, and I smell burning under the hood. I took it back to the dealer where I bought it. I was told nothing was wrong with it. The problem has been coming back. The dealership was Dennis Hyuandai on Morse Rd in Cols. Oh. 43219 2) I am afraid I may have this problem on the highway some day, as it has become more frequent. 3) Dealer claims nothing wrong with the transmission. 4) No I didn't know I had this opption. 5) No none. It has been and on and off problem for nearly 2yrs

NHTSA ODI 11455644

Engine idles rough, shifts rough, idles high, stalls, and sometimes just simply won't run. CEL came on when it was time for an oil change/service, had oil and filter changed at Express Lube, and had them run a diagnostic on the CEL to make sure it was for the oil change, it was code P0017 cam/crankshaft. They cleared the code to be sure it wasn't just a glitch, CEL came right back on not even 50 miles down the road, and the car stalled in the middle of traffic, barely made it out of harms way with my two children in the car! I bought this car in October 2021, made my first payment in December 2021 and the CEL came on originally in January 2022. After spending the money to have it diagnosed further by my Hyundai Dealer where I purchased the car, the technician confirmed the P0017 code and also that it is a timing chain issue and that it's recommended to just replace the entire motor! The car is barely 4 years old, not even 100k miles, and I am only the SECOND owner! How does this just happen to such a new car with lower mileage that has a good maintenance history just all of a sudden needs a new motor? I can't afford to keep making high payments on an unsafe vehicle. I have searched through the complaints about this specific model and have found several identical cases related to the P0017 code which tells me this is a reoccurring malfunction from Hyundai and they need to own that responsibility before a class action lawsuit is filed. CEL came on at approximately 95K miles which would qualify for the powertrain warranty but since I am the second owner the warranty is no good. Someone help please!!

NHTSA ODI 11450502

Check engine light on with diagnostic error code P0304 cylinder 4 misfire detected ignition coil

NHTSA ODI 11449641

According to the Hyundai Dealership, located in Corona, CA, the Hyundai Elantra's are known for the ignition coil to go out. This is also not covered under warranty and list below of why it should be: This can cause Engine misfiring in a vehicle whose ignition coils have failed. Trying to start the engine of such a vehicle will result in engine misfiring that sounds like a coughing, sputtering noise. When driving at high speeds, jerking and spitting will be seen in the behavior of the vehicle. A vehicle with a failed ignition coil will also result in vibration when it is idling at a stop sign or light. Driving with a faulty coil pack can damage other components of the engine. Also most cars will register a faulty coil and immediately stop gas feed to that cylinder. However, damage may be caused if the fault isn’t registered by the PCM and the dead cylinder continues to receive gas. Your catalytic converter and oxygen sensors may become contaminated by raw gas and need to be replaced. This can be dangerous if it is a known common issue in a Hyundai Elantra and cause an accident when travelling at a higher speed. I was at a stop when this problem occurred for me but was able to safely move out of the way.

NHTSA ODI 11440905

The contact owns a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that after starting the vehicle, the vehicle was idling rough. The contact stated that the check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic where it was diagnosed with needing the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. The vehicle was repaired but continued to experience failure. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and informed the contact that they were unable to assist. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.

NHTSA ODI 11434881

Drove my car yesterday when it stalled. I was able to start it again and pulled to the side of the highway. The engine was knocking loudly. I turned off the car and called a tow truck. When hyundai received my car they told me it was the rod bearings.they initially told me id be covered regardless of warranty as its a known issue. They called me late that day and told me they won't cover it since I'm 18,000 over the powertrain warrenty. This very problem has been recalled from 2013 upto 2019. However my car isn't listed. They told me ill need a new engine which costs $6000 for parts and labor. After researching im not the first this has happened to.

NHTSA ODI 11430032

I AM 2ND OWNER OF VEHICLE (BOUGHT WITH 36252 MILES) AROUND 76XXX VEHICLE STARTING MAKING TICKING NOISES I BROUGHT INTO CARMAX WHERE I WAS TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG. I GOT AN OIL CHANGE AND WENT ON MY WAY. 2 DAYS LATER THE CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. BROUGHT IT BACK CARMAX AGAIN STATES NOTHING WRONG. THE CAR IS CONSTANTLY SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING LONG DISTANCE. AT 90525 MY CAR SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING ON A BRIDGE BROUGHT IT INTO HYUNDAI WERE THEY STATED I NEEDED A NEW MOTOR BUT IT WASNT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY DUE TO "SLUDGE" I LIVE IN FL ITS HOT AND I LIVE DOWN A 3 MILE BACKROAD THAT WILL CAUSE BUILD UP ACCORDING TO RESEARCH. HYUNDAI WONT HELP AND THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE ESPECIALLY FOR MY KIDS NOW IM STUCK MAKING PAYMENTS ON A CAR THAT CANT BE DRIVEN AND IM 2000 IN RENTAL CAR FEES. AND DONT HAVE THE BEST CREDIT TO GET ANOTHER CAR. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE ASAP AS I SEE THIS COMPLAINT MULTIPLE TIMES

NHTSA ODI 11400112

I BOUGHT MY 2017 ELANTRA SE 2.0 IN APRIL OF 2020 MY CAR KEEPS STALLING WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS AND WHEN I MAKE TURNS LEFT OR RIGHT AT LOW SPEEDS VERY SCARY AND UNSAFE AND ALSO ENGINE NOISES AND SHAKES REAL BAD SOMETIMES AS WELL I STILL OWE 20000 FOR THIS LEMON HYUNDAI SHOULD BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS AS ITS BEEN A SERIOUS PROBLEM FOR YEARS FROM WHAT I READ VERY DANGEROUS THIS HAPPENS ON CITY STREETS AND EXPRESSWAY

NHTSA ODI 11397244

MY 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA BEGAN TO SHAKE AND REFUSED TO SHIFT ABOVE 40MPHS ON A ROAD POSTED 45. THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE RMP GAUGE SHOW THAT IT WAS STUCK AT 2RMPS. I SLOWED THE VEHICLE AND TURN ON MY FLASHERS AND IN MY TRAVELING TO A SAFE PULL OFF LOCATION. THE ENGINE LIGHT WENT OFF, THE SHAKING STOPPED, AND THE CAR RESUME A NORMAL SHIFTING PATTERN. THE VERY NEXT DAY WHILE TRAVELING IN THE CAR THE SAME THING OCCURRED. I EXPLAINED THE PROBLEM WHEN ARRIVED AT HYUNDAI AND WHILE IDLING AND WAITING TO THE CAR PERSON TO CHECK ME IN. THE CAR BEGAN TO DO SHORT SHUDDERS; THIS WAS DIRECTLY WITNESSED BY A CAR SERVICE EMPLOYEE. THE 2ND CYLINDER IGNITION COIL WAS REPLACED. IN MY SECOND VISIT I WAS SURE OF WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS BECAUSE I HAD EXPERIENCED THE SAME CAR SYMPTOMS SEVERAL MONTHS EARLIER. HERE IS THE PROBLEM THIS WAS SECOND CYLINDER I HAVE HAD TO HAVE REPLACED IN ABOUT 3000 MILES AND SEVERAL MONTHS; MY CAR ONLY HAS 25,0000 MILES. THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE ON THE REPAIR FORM IT STATES ECU UPGRADE.

NHTSA ODI 11396999

THE CAR HAS BEEN STALLING SINCE LAST FEBRUARY, MOSTLY DURING TURNS, AND WHILE DEACCELERATING. SOMETIMES IT IDLES ROUGH AND STALLS AT TRAFFIC LIGHTS. I TOOK IT TO MY DEALER BACK THEN, AND THEY TOLD ME THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY METAL SHAVINGS FROM THE ENGINE PLUGGING THE VALVE THAT REGULATES FUEL. I HAD PERFORMED REGULAR OIL CHANGES AND THE DEALER BELIEVED THAT THE PROBLEM WAS CAUSED BY A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. THE DEALER CONTACTED HYUNDAI, AND HYUNDAI REFUSED TO REMEDY THE DEFECT. THE PROBLEM TEMPORARILY GOES AWAY IF I GET AN OIL SYSTEM FLUSH, WHICH I HAVE BEEN DOING FREQUENTLY. AFTER ABOUT A MONTH, THE CAR BEGINS STALLING AGAIN, PRESUMEABLY BECAUSE THE SHAVINGS ARE PLUGGING THE VALVE AGAIN. THE CAR HAS BECOME DIFFICULT TO START. THIS MORNING IT WOULD NOT START AT ALL.

NHTSA ODI 11383295

HI TEAM, THERE IS A GRINDING NOISE WHENEVER I SHIFT MY CAR FROM PARK TO DRIVE. IT HAPPENS WHENEVER I SHIFT FROM PARK TO DRIVE/REVERSE OR SLOW DOWN QUICKLY. SO, I AM CONCERNED THAT THERE IS A SAFETY ISSUE HERE. I FEEL REALLY UNCOMFORTABLE DRIVING MY OWN VEHICLE WHEN THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT. THIS PUTS ME TO THINK THAT THIS MIGHT BE A TRANSMISSION ISSUE. THE VEHICLE IS UNDER WARRANTY AND LESS THAN 100,000 KM.

NHTSA ODI 11377141

PURCHASED A HYUNDAI ELANTRA 2017 FROM A DEALERSHIP ON JULY 7, 2020. THE 2ND DAY IT STALLED ON ME FEELING LIKE IT'S IN NEUTRAL WITH ENGINE LIGHT ON. I RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY REPLACE THE IGNITION COIL AS AND SAID THEY ORDERED A PART TO RETURN IN 2 WKS. THIS HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE AIRBAG UNDER THE PASSENGER SEAT. THEY KEPT THE CAR ANOTHER 2 WEEKS. I WAS HAPPY WHEN THEY CALLED THAT IT WAS READY. EACH TIME I HAD TO PAY THE 2 TOLLS TO GO TO THEM IN JERSEY. BEFORE I GOT ON THE GARDEN STATE GOOD, THE CAR STARTED SHAKING, COULDN'T GO OVER 45 MPH WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON AGAIN. I RETURNED IT. THEY KEPT IT 2 WEEKS. I HAVE MY CAR WITH THE ENGINE LIGHT ON STILL AND CALLED TO COMPLAIN BUT UNABLE TO REACH A MANAGER EACH TIME. I USED UP OVER $200 OF TOLL MONEY WHICH I USED UP PLUS GETTING SOMEONE TO TAKE ME TO DROP OFF OR PICK UP THE CAR HAD TO PAY FOR GAS AND TOLL. PRODUCED THE E-ZPASS RECEIPTS AND EVERYTHING AND EVERY TIME I GO AND ASK FOR THE REFUND, THE OWNER IS NEVER THERE. I DO NOT WANT TO HAVE MY NEW CAR BREAK DOWN WITH ME IN THE MIDDLE OF WINTER. I REQUESTED A LIST OF THE THINGS THAT WERE DONE TO TRY TO RESOLVE THE ENGINE LIGHT ISSUE SEVERAL TIMES EVEN FROM THE SALESMAN WHO DOES NOT TAKE MY CALLS OR WHEN HE DOES, HE DON'T KNOW WHAT TO TELL ME. SAID HE'LL ASK AND GET BACK TO ME. NO RESPONSE. THE FIRST DAY I PAID FOR THE CAR AND WE WERE HAPPY TO BE GOING HOME, MY DAUGHTER AND I NOTICED THE FRONT BUMPER ALL BROKEN UP AND IT WASN'T LIKE THAT WHEN WE INSPECTED AND CHOSE IT BEFORE PAYING. THE SALESMAN SAL SAID THERE'S NOTHING HE CAN DO ABOUT THAT AS I ALREADY PAID FOR THE CAR AND MUST ACCEPT IT THAT WAY. I BROUGHT IT TO A SALESWOMAN ATTENTION THE LAST TIME I WENT TO PICK UP MY CAR AND THEY ONLY SAID THE MANAGER/OWNER WILL REACH OUT TO ME. NEVER HEARD FROM THEM. STILL DIDN'T RECEIVE PLATES. I FEEL LIKE THEY TOOK ADVANTAGE OF ME AS A SENIOR CITIZEN.

NHTSA ODI 11362497

ENGINE TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING, USUALLY AFTER BRAKING BUT ALSO WHILE IN MOTION. LUCKILY, IT WAS AT A STOP LIGHT OR WHILE I WAS IN LIGHT TRAFFIC. IT HAS HAPPENED ON MORE THAN ONE OCCASION AFTER DRIVING AN AVERAGE OF 30-40 MINUTES. THERE DOESN'T SEEM TO BE A PATTERN OR A SPECIFIC REASONING AS TO WHY.

NHTSA ODI 11360890

WHILE DRIVING, ENGINE WOULD TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING. AS I ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE THE ENGINE WOULD BE OFF (NO ACCELERATION) AND THE ENGINE, OIL, AND BATTERY LIGHTS WOULD COME ON. DASHBOARD ELECTRONICS AND RADIO WOULD STAY ON. PUT THE CAR IN PARK, TURN IT OFF, TURN IT BACK ON - NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS ON AND THE CAR NOW DRIVES AS NORMAL. ALL INSTANCES HAPPENED WHILE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION ON CITY STREETS, MOST INSTANCED HAPPENED WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS TURNING. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I TOOK IT TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. THEY SAID IT WAS BECAUSE I HAD LOW OIL (NO OIL INDICATOR LIGHT HAD BEEN ON). "FIXED" IT BY DOING AN OIL CHANGE. ALL SUBSEQUENT OIL CHANGES HAVE BEEN DONE AT HYUNDAI LAKELAND. 8 MONTHS LATER I EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM. CAR TAKEN TO HYUNDAI LAKELAND. DIAGNOSED AS BAD SENSORS IN THE ENGINE (SENDING INCORRECT INFORMATION ABOUT WHEN THE ENGINE NEEDS POWER) AND A BAD CRANKSHAFT (AS A RESULT OF THE STALLING AND BAD SENSORS). BECAUSE OF THE MULTIPLE OCCASIONS THAT THIS HAS OCCURRED AND THE DIFFERENT DIAGNOSES THAT IT HAS HAD FROM THE SAME DEALERSHIP, I AM UNSURE IF THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN TAKEN CARE OF WITH THE LAST REPAIR. AN ENGINE THAT TURNS OFF WHILE THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION CREATES A DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE DRIVER AND OTHERS AS THE VEHICLE CEASES FORWARD MOTION. I HAVE BEEN LUCKY THAT THIS ISSUE HAS NOT RESULTED IN A TRAFFIC ACCIDENT.

NHTSA ODI 11351975

THE CAR CUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING.IT STALLS N TRAFFIC LIKE IT WON'T GO N I ALMOST HAVE BEEN HIT SEVERAL TIMES.THERE IS NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON.VERY DANGEROUS N SCARES ME WHEN I DRIVE CAUSE U NEVER KNOW WHEN IT'S GOING TO CUT OFF N TRAFFIC OR WHILE TURNING.

NHTSA ODI 11343647

VEHICLE IS JERKING, THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FAST ENOUGH, CODE P0190

NHTSA ODI 11337822

MY 2017 ELANTRA LOST POWER AND DIED WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN A COUNTY ROAD. HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK BEFORE IT WOULD RESTART. *TR

NHTSA ODI 11323520

I BOUGHT A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA LIMITED EDITION AT THE END OF 2016 IT HAD 43 MILES ON IT. I HAVE TAKING IT TO ABOUT 6 DIFFERENT DEALERSHIPS DUE TO TRANSMISSION ISSUES AND ENGINE POWER LOSS AND OUT IF THE 6 I HAVE GONE MORE THE A FEW TIMES. THEIR RESPONSE TO MY CONCERNS ABOUT THE CAR IS WE CANNOT REPRODUCE THIS SO THERE IS NO PROBLEM OR THERE'S NOT A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON. EVERY DEALERSHIP THAT I HAVE GONE TO REPEAT THIS SAYING OVER AND OVER. WHEN MY CAR SHIFTS INTO SECOND GEAR IT'S ALMOST AS IF THAT GEAR HAS TWO MORE LIKE DRIVING A STICK SHIFT BUT YOU'RE SHIFTING TOO SOON SO IT SPITS AND SPUTTERS, IN ADDITION TO THIS 3RD 4TH 5TH GEAR HAS A LONG DELAY IN SHIFTING IT ALSO FEELS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING AS THE RPMS AND SPEED COME UP IT FEELS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION GRIPS AND YOU CAN FEEL THE TORQUE KICK IN IF YOU WILL. THERE'S BEEN MANY TIMES I HAVE TO MANUALLY SHIFT THE CAR OUT OF 5TH INTO 6TH AND A FEW TIMES OUT OF 4TH. MY CAR HAS 38970 MILES ON IT. I HAD THE TRANSMISSION FLUSH AND THE ENGINE, IGNITION COILS HAVE BEEN REPLACED, I USE PREMIUM GAS AND FUEL INJECTIONS CLEARER. NOWADAYS WHEN I'M DRIVING I HAVE TO PUSH THE GAS PEDAL HALFWAY DOWN FOR THE CAR TO ACTUALLY MOVE. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON ABOUT SIX MONTHS AFTER I GOT THIS CARD.

NHTSA ODI 11318866

2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. CAR IS SHAKING HEAVILY AT IDLE, NO CODES OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. NO ONE WILL DIAGNOSE, TURNED AWAY BY DEALERSHIP. WHEN TURNING CAR WILL STALL MIDDLE OF INTERSECTION, THIS HAS HAPPENED TWICE. THIS IS UNSAFE AND DEALERSHIP WILL NOT HELP ME AND I AM TURNED AWAY. I'M STARTING TO WORRY ABOUT THE SAFETY OF MY CAR. I MAINTAIN IT UP TO MANUFACTURER STANDARDS. TRANSMISSION IS CLUNKY AND NOT WORKING WELL. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, NO CODES. DEALERSHIP AND OTHER MECHANICS WILL NOT LOOK INTO ISSUES. TRANSMISSION IS SEALED SYSTEM BUT IS IN NEED OF FLUID CHANGE. FLUID IS DIRTY AND FILLED WITH METAL AT 55,000 MILES. OTHER PEOPLE COMPLAIN OF SAME ISSUE AT 35000 MILES. DEALERSHIPS SAY THIS IS A LIFETIME SYSTEM AND DOES NOT NEED SERVICE. THIS CAR IS STARTING TO SEEM UNSAFE. THE AMOUNT OF COMPLAINTS ON HYUNDAI FORUMS TO THIS NATURE SHOULD REFLECT SOME NEED TO MAKE THE CAR NOT DANGEROUS.

NHTSA ODI 11291744

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHILE DRIVING 25 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND COMPLETELY SHUT OFF. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND FUNCTIONED NORMALLY; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE SHAFT SENSOR WAS REPLACED TWICE, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO PARKWAY HYUNDAI (24050 CREEKSIDE RD, SANTA CLARITA, CA 91355, (661) 750-4042) WHERE IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THERE WAS NO FAILURE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THERE WAS NO FAILURE WITH THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 66,793.

NHTSA ODI 11277597

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. WHETHER THE VEHICLE WAS STOPPED OR WHILE DRIVING IN TRAFFIC AND ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE, THE VEHICLE HESITATED AND JERKED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO KEN GARFF HYUNDAI (717 SOUTH WEST TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH 84101, 801-257-3200) WHERE THE DUAL CLUTCH WAS RESET; HOWEVER, THE REPAIR DID NOT CORRECT THE FAILURE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO YOUNG HYUNDAI (333 WALL AVENUE, OGDEN UT, 84401) WHERE IT WAS KEPT FOR SIX DAYS. THE DEALER CLEANED THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, BUT THE FAILURE CONTINUED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200.

NHTSA ODI 11255367

'TAKATA RECALL' I HAVE NOTICED THAT MY TRANSMISSION SKIPS OR JERKS RANDOMLY. AS I'M DRIVING ON THE STREETS OR ON THE HIGHWAY... MY RPM'S WILL JUMP UP TO 3, 4, OR SOMETIMES 5 WHEN I'M DRIVING AND HOLDING STEADY AT 2 RPM'S. I ALWAYS DRIVE THE SPEED LIMIT AND NEVER FLOOR MY GAS PEDAL. IT ALSO WILL FEEL LIKE IT'S NOT CATCHING THE GEARS CORRECTLY AND WILL JERK. THIS IS SOMETHING I HAVE NOTICED OVER THE YEARS WITH MY CAR BUT SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE OVER TIME. I DO ALSO HAVE TROUBLE IF I CHANGE MY DRIVE MODE TO 'SPORT'. THE TRANSMISSION DOESN'T SEEM TO GRIP THE GEARS WHEN NEEDED SO I NEVER REALLY USE THE SPORT MODE.

NHTSA ODI 11233729