What 842 owners told NHTSA about the 2017 Ford Focus RS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASING THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT BECAME AWARE THAT THE CLUTCH WAS SLIPPING. WHILE RECEIVING AN OIL CHANGE, THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THERE WAS A TRANSMISSION LEAK COMING FROM THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO NOURSE CHILLICOTHE AUTOMALL (423 N BRIDGE ST, CHILLICOTHE, OH 45601, (888) 691-6167) AND THE CLUTCH KIT WAS REPLACED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE REPAIR WAS NOT COVERED UNDER RECALL. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 65,000.

NHTSA ODI 11360466

I AM COMPLAINING ABOUT THE TRANSMISSION. AFTER OWNING IT THEY HAD TO REPLACE PRESSURE PLATES IN THE VHICLE AFTER 25K MILES. NOW IT HAS 50K MILES AND IS DOING THE EXACT SAME THING AGAIN. AFTER READING MANY FORUMS THERE CLEARLY IS A PROBLEM WITH THIS AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.

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1) BATTERY WAS REPLACED. CORROSION SURROUNDING BATTERY & ALL PARTS OF BATTERY. TOOK THE CAR TO INSPECTION <2 MONTHS LATER AND CORROSION WAS JUST AS BAD. 2) HAVE TAKEN CARE IN EVERY 2-4 MONTHS SINCE PURCHASING NEW IN 2018. UPON ACCELERATION AND TURNING, CAR SHAKES AND STUTTERS. EACH TIME IT IS TAKEN IN, THERE IS NOTHING DONE BECAUSE "IT'S A KNOWN PROBLEM AND THERE'S NO FIX."

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CAR TRANSMISSION SHUDDER WHEN ACCELERATING FROM STOP, DEALER SAYS ITS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT.

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WHILE DRIVING TO WORK AS I PULLED OUT OF MY NEIGHBORHOOD MY RPMS BEGAN BEGAN DO RAPIDLY BOUNCE BETWEEN 0-6 AND THE GAS PEDAL DIDN'T RESPOND TO ANYTHING LIKE THE ENGINE WAS NOT RECEIVING ENOUGH FUEL. I STOPPED THE CAR, IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD, PUT IN PARK AND THE ENGINE RETURNED TO A NORMAL IDLE. I BEGAN TO CONTINUE DRIVING TO TURN AROUND COME BACK HOME WORRIED ABOUT THIS ISSUE. ABOUT A HALF MILE LATER THE ENGINE COMPLETELY STALLED ON ME IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. THE CAR WOULD CRANK WITH NO START. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN. I HAD TO HAVE MY CAR TOWED TO THE LOCAL FORD DEALERSHIP AT BEACH FORD IN VIRGINIA BEACH, VA. AFTER THEIR TESTING I WAS TOLD THAT THE FUEL PUMP DRIVER MODULE (FPDM) NEEDS REPLACED AND THAT THE PART IS BACKORDERED WITH AN ESTIMATED DELIVERY DATE 2 WEEKS OUT. THE CAR ONLY HAS 23,500 MILES ON IT. THERE'S NO RECALL AT THIS TIME FOR FORD FOCUS STALLING ISSUE WHILE DRIVING WHICH IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN FOR A VEHICLE TO STALL WHILE TRAVELING DOWN A ROAD/HIGHWAY. THAT FACT DISGUSTS ME BECAUSE IT IS A KNOWN AND REOCCURRING PROBLEM AND NOTHING HAS CAME OF IT. I ALSO FIND IT INTERESTING THAT PEOPLE WITH THE SAME ISSUES HERE WERE RECOMMENDED TO REPLACE DIFFERENT PARTS. I'M CURIOUS TO SEE IF THIS FPDM WILL SOLVE THE PROBLEM OF STALLING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD.

NHTSA ODI 11353072

ONE TIRE WAS INSTALLED AND IT IS CONSTANTLY LEAKING AIR.

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II TOOK MY CAR IN TO THE DEALERSHIP WHEN I RECEIVED MY RECALL ON MY VEHICLE. I WAS THEN TOLD BY THE SERVICE MANAGER THAT THEY COULD NOT FIX IT DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE RECALL PART HAS NOT START TO GO OUT YET .SO NOW THE CAR RECALL PROBLEM IS CAUSING PROBLEMS NOW. SO I TOOK IT BACK TO DEALERSHIP AND WAS TOLD THEY WAS NOT GOING FIX IT BECAUSE THE RECALL HAD EXPIRED NOW. MIND YOU THIS IS MY ONLY TRANSPORTATION AND I AM A SINGLE MOTHER WITH A PRECIOUS 5YR. DAUGHTER THAT I HAVE TRANSPORT IN THIS CAR. SO CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME WITH MY CAR I DO NOT WANT TO BROKE DOWN ON THE DANGEROUS HIGHWAYS AND ROADWAY WITH MY FAMILY IN THIS CAR. HELP HELP HELP PLEASE AND THANK YOU!!!!!! I WAS AT THE GAS STATION GETTING GAS AND THE CAR CUT OFF. AND THE RECALL HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE FUEL TANK DEFORMATION. I SPOKE TO THE SERVICE MANAGER, HIS MANAGER AND THE GM MANAGER AT FORD. THEY TOLD IT WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO. AND I TO FIX IT MY SELF.

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THERE IS ONLY A LITTLE MORE THAN 90,000 MILES ON THE CAR AND THE TRANSMISSION NEEDS REPLACING. DEALERSHIP SAID THE INTERNAL GEARS WERE GRINDING DOWN.

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THERE IS 2,800 DOLLARS WORTH OF WORK I'VE TAKEN IT IN TWICE FOR THE SAME THING IT COMES OUT WORSE EVERYTIME IT WAS BUILT IN DECEMBER 2016 IT LEAVES ME SITTING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD THEN DRIVES FINE IT'S CRAZY I NEED HELP IT HAS DUAL CLUTCH TRANSMISSION

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MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON WHILE DRIVING TO WORK ON A CITY STREET AROUND 7:30 AM ON MY WAY TO WORK AND WHEN I GOT HOME MY HUSBAND CHECK THE CODE WAS P144A FOR A EVAP PURGE VALVE. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH A RECALL JUST NOT FOR MY VEHICLE.

NHTSA ODI 11349294

THE VEHICLE'S TRANSMISSION DISENGAGES WHILE MAKING A LEFT TURN FROM A STOP. WHEN STARTING THE TURN, IT MOVES FORWARD THEN THE TRANSMISSION DISENGAGES AND THE CAR ROLLS FORWARD WITH THE ENGINE STILL RUNNING. WE HAVE TO PUT IT IN PARK, PUT THE WHEELS STRAIGHT, SHUT THE ENGINE OFF AND RESTART IT....IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ONCOMING TRAFFIC!!. IT HAS DONE THIS 4 TIMES SINCE WE GOT THE CAR. WHEN WE BROUGHT THE CAR IN (TWICE) FOR ANOTHER RELATED TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (DRY CLUTCH) WE INFORMED THE SERVICE ADVISORS AND THIER TECHS COULD NOT REPLICATE THE ISSUE OR OFFER ANY IDEA AS TO WHY THIS HAPPENS. THE CAR ALSO HAS A JERKING MOTION WHEN ACCELERATING. THE CAR HAS BEEN IN TWICE FOR THE THIS SAME REPAIR, CLUTCH REPLACEMENT ON AN AUTOMATIC, WITHIN 1 YEAR. FORD HAS ONLY EXTENDED THE WARRANTY FOR THIS PROBLEM ONLY UP TO THE 2016 MODEL YEAR EVEN THOUGH THE 2017 MODEL HAS THE SAME TRANSMISSION AND PROBLEM AS PREVIOUS YEARS.

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VACUUM LINE W/SENSOR IS NOT LETTING GAS GET TO THE MOTOR PROPERLY CAUSING IT TO CUT OFF OR REV INTENSELY. RECALL WAS DONE WITH OUT ANY REPLACEMENT OF NEW PARTS.

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THE TRANSMISSION IS SHUTTERING ON ACCELERATION FROM A STOP. THIS ISSUE HAPPENS IN ALL ROAD CONDITIONS.

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TOOK MY CAR IN FOR SUDDENLY DROPPING RPMS, IT CAN DO THIS AT ANYTIME. THEY REPORTED IT IS THE CANISTER PURGE VALVE.

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THE CLUTCH IN THE TRANSMISSION HAS FAILED TWICE. IT CAUSES MY CAR TO JERK AND SHUDDER UPON ACCELERATION. I'VE ALMOST CAUSED ACCIDENTS BECAUSE OF THE JERKING.FORD DOESN'T HAVE A PERMANENT FIX FOR THIS.

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THE CAR SHUTTERS WHEN ACCELERATING FROM A COMPLETE STOP. HAVE TAKEN IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND FIXED IT AT LEAST 3 TIMES AND THEY SAY THERES NOTHING FOR ME TO DO BUT TO KEEP REPAIRING IT AND ONCE I DONT HAVE A WARRANTY THE MONEY WILL GO OUT OF MY POCKET.

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WHEN STARTING FROM A STOPPED POSITION ON A STREET AND THE CAR BEGINS IN MOTION, IT HAS A SLUGGISH AND JERKY START. I TOOK THE CAR TO AN AUTO MECHANIC AND HE SAID IT NEEDED A NEW DUAL CLUTCH IN THE TRANSMISSION.

NHTSA ODI 11339952

I HAVE HAD TRANSMISSION ISSUES SINCE PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE. THE TRANSMISSION SHUDDERS WHEN I ACCELERATE. IT ALSO SHUDDERS WHEN ACCELERATING AND TURNING SIMULTANEOUSLY. THIS SEEMS TO BE THE EXACT SAME ISSUE THAT AFFECTED FORD FOCUSES BUILT IN 2012-2016 VEHICLES. IT OCCURS MOSTLY WHILE ACCELERATING FROM A STOP. IT HAS OCCURED THROUGHOUT THE LIFE OF THE VEHICLE (CURENTLY ~20K MILES DRIVEN). THIS ISSUE IS STILL ONGOING.

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WHILE COMING DOWN A HILL MY VEHICLE'S ENGINE BEGAN TO BIG DOWN AS IF TO STALL. MY ENGINE OIL LIGHT CAME ON, I PULLED INTO A LOCAL OIL SERVICE STATION TO HAVE THEM CHECK THE OIL, (PREVIOUS SERVICE WAS APPROXIMATELY 1 MONTH PRIOR AND IT HAD ONLY BEEN APPROXIMATELY 1200 MILES SINCE LAST SERVICE). THEY SAID THAT THE OIL WAS FINE BUT I HAD THEM CHANGE THE OIL AGAIN JUST TO BE SURE. THE OIL LIGHT REFUSED TO GO OUT. I THEN HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE CLOSEST FORD DEALERSHIP BECAUSE THE VEHICLE BECAME UNSAFE AND COULD NOT BE DRIVE ACCORDING TO THE SERVICE STATION. AFTER A WEEK AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE ENGINE WAS NO LONGER HOLDING OIL PRESSURE AND THAT VARIOUS COMPONENTS INSIDE THE ENGINE HAD NOW STARTED THROWING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. THE DEALERSHIP INFORMANT ME IT WOULD BE APPROXIMATELY $7700 TO REPLACE THE ENGINE, AS THE VEHICLE'S ENGINE IS IN A STATE OF FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN TOWED FROM THE DEALERSHIP AND SITTING IN MY DRIVEWAY AT 71457 MILES... THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THAT BECAUSE THE VEHICLE IS 11450 MILES OUT OF WARRANTY THAT THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO. VEHICLE WAS REGULARLY SERVICED. I HAVE READ VARIOUS OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS YEAR MAKE AND MODEL HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WHICH HAS LEAD TO THE VEHICLES BECOMING UNSAFE TO DRIVE AND ULTIMATELY UNABLE TO BE DRIVEN.

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I WAS COMING OFF FREEWAY AND GETTING ONTO ANOTHER FREEWAY WHEN, AS I WAS SPEEDING UP TO MERGE, MY CAR BOGGED DOWN AS IF RUNNING OUT OF GAS. I LOOKED AT THE DASH AND SAW MY OIL LIGHT HAD COME ON. SO I PULLED OVER TO AN EXIT WITHIN 30 YDS. AND PULLED ONTO A STREET ABOUT ANOTHER 30 YDS. AWAY. I SHUT OFF THE CAR AND LET IT SIT A FEW MINUTES THEN CHECKED OIL. WHEN I DID, THE OIL SHOWED FULL. I THEN CALLED THE FORD DEALER I TAKE MY CAR TO FOR OIL CHANGES AND SPOKE WITH A SERVICE GUY AND TOLD HIM WHAT HAPPENED. HE WAS PUZZLED AND ASKED A FEW QUESTIONS AND THEN WE TRIED TO RESET THE OIL LIGHT. AFTER DOING THE RESET THE OIL LIGHT CAME BACK ON. I TRIED STARTING THE CAR AND IT STARTED FINE. NO ABNORMAL SOUNDS COMING FROM THE ENGINE AND IT IDLED FINE. I DECIDED TO TRY THE FREEWAY AGAIN TO SEE IF THE OIL LIGHT WAS A FLUKE. THE NEXT EXIT WAS ONLY A HALF MILE AWAY SO I COULD EASILY GET OFF FREEWAY IF NECESSARY. AGAIN, THE FREEWAY WAS ONLY ABOUT 30 YDS AWAY SO WHEN I STARTED TO MERGE ONTO THE FREEWAY THE SAME THING HAPPENED. THE CAR ACCELERATED SLOWLY AND THEN BOGGED DOWN AND THE DASH FLASHED THE ENGINE NEEDED ATTENTION OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. AGAIN I GOT OFF AT THE NEXT EXIT, WHICH WAS RIGHT THERE WHEN IT HAPPENED. I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE FORD DEALER NEAR WHERE I LIVE. SERVICE WAS CLOSED BUT SOME SALES PEOPLE WERE STILL THERE AND THEY TOLD US WHERE TO PUT THE CAR. THEY DIDN'T LOOK AT THE CAR UNTIL MONDAY AND EVEN THEN THEY DIDN'T REALLY OPEN THE CAR UP AND LOOK AT IT. THE TECHNICIAN SAID PROBABLY THE TIMING/OIL PUMP BELT BROKE OR SHREDDED AND CLOGGED UP THE OIL PUMP. TO OPEN UP THE ENGINE WOULD COST $800 TO FIND OUT THE ACTUAL PROBLEM AND IF THE TECH WAS RIGHT THE ENGINE WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED COSTING $7400. ALL THIS BECAUSE OF A FAULTY BELT DESIGNED TO LAST 125,000-150,000 MILES. LUCKILY I WASN'T DRIVING 65MPH IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FREEWAY AND BREAKING DOWN AND GETTING SLAMMED. *TR

NHTSA ODI 11330943

THE CAR SHAKE WHEN DRIVING,AT TIMES THE PUT NEW CLICHES LAST YEAR BUT STILL DO IT BUT WHEN YOU TAKE IT BACK ,THE SAY IT DOESN'T SHOW A CODE .I BOUT THE CAR BRAND NEW 3 YRS. AGO AND I HAVE BEEN COMPLAINING OFF AND ON. THEY ARE AWARE OF THE PROBLEM,THEY WILL TELL YOU THAT,BUT IT HAVE TO SHOW A CODE,THAT WHY THEY REPLACED NEW CLICHES. BUT IS STILL DOING IT ALONE WITH A NOISY SOUND. THANK YOU *TR

NHTSA ODI 11331024

MY CAR DROPS INTO NEUTRAL BETWEEN GEARS WHEN CHANGING GEARS AS I AM DRIVING, LEADING TO A LACK OF ACCELERATION. AT TIMES CAR LURCHES FORWARD AND SHIFTS JERKILY. THIS HAPPENS WHEN STARTING TO PULL OFF FROM A RED LIGHT AND IT HAS HAPPENED ON THE HIGHWAY GOING 65 MPH. *TR

NHTSA ODI 11330735

SLIPPAGE WITH TRANSMISSION ON TURNING CORNERS. FLUID IS GOOD ON VEHICLE. HAPPENS WITH EACH TURN, RIGHT OR LEFT. ENGINE REVS ON TURNS UP TO PASS 3 RPMS. THIS STARTED WITH THE PURCHASE OF THE VEHICLE IN AUG 2019. I KNEW MY DEALER WOULD NOT ADDRESS IT A FEW DAYS AFTER PURCHASE. *TR

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 FORD FOCUS. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT 45 MPH, THE OIL LEVEL WARNING LIGHT FLASHED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE CONTACT PULLED THE VEHICLE OVER AND INSPECTED THE VEHICLE BUT FOUND NO ISSUES WITH THE VEHICLE. THE CONTACT CALLED PERRY FORD OF POWAY (12740 POWAY RD, POWAY, CA 92064, (858) 748-1400) AND SPOKE WITH A REPRESENTATIVE WHO ATTEMPTED TO ASSIST WITH THE WARNING LIGHT FAILURE. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO RESET THE WARNING LIGHT AND ATTEMPTED TO RESUME NORMAL DRIVING HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE SAME DEALER BUT WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY. NO FURTHER ASSISTANCE WAS PROVIDED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,000.*DT MECHANIC TOLD THE CONSUMER THERE WERE ISSSUES WITH TIMING/OIL PUMP BELT (LOCATED INSIDE THE ENGINE) BROKE/SHRED. OIL PRESSURE DROPPED AND PIECES OF BELT CLOGGED OIL PUMP AND ALSO CIRCULATED THROUGH THE ENGINE. ENGINE NEEDS REPLACEMENT. ESTIMATED COST: $7100. *JB

NHTSA ODI 11330569

THE BACK DRIVERS SIDE DOOR NO LONGER CLOSES. NO DAMAGE WAS DONE TO THE CAR, IT JUST STOPPED LATCHING. THE DOOR BOUNCES BACK INSTEAD OF CLOSING. CAR WAS UNLOCKED, OFF, AND PARKED AT HOME. *TR

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