What 28 owners told NHTSA about the 2017 Chevrolet Spark EV

When the car reaches a certain speed (50 mph plus) it jerks and jolts. The engine light is on and a P-code is present. Each mechanic says something different.

NHTSA ODI 11676086

105000 miles: Lost Brakes extremely hard to push brake pedal. Lost vacuum, enabling to stop car safely. Took brake vacuum line off vacuum pump and plug pump so oil don’t leak out pump. Then join the line to an existing vacuum line. Problem solved no issues since. 205000 miles: Repeatedly theft mode, flickering dashboard, and dead battery issues. Battery was good charged, alternator charging right. To lead with fusebox circuit board needed to be re-soldered. Have no idea how it happened but no problem since. I still have all factory parts on car. This is a stick shift 5 speed. Get 40ish bit more miles a gallon. Keep oil changed as normal. I float gears when putting around. Leaving less stress for clutch issues. As I’m 208000 so miles still have few miles before replacing factory clutch brake pads belts plugs etc… I keep check at all wear clean up dust collected grease all joints every season. So can’t say much about car being a problem.

NHTSA ODI 11504019

Electrical : First instance in 2020. There are instances when you stop the car, and it appears the vehicle has no electrical charge (it is a gas vehicle). Happened once while parked (2020)- service request August 2020, and another while waiting for a green light (2021). My concern is this occurs and causing an accident. Suspension: First instance in 2021: The vehicle has less than 50K miles. The car rattles loudly. Service request Aug 2021. I went into the dealership and was told that the suspension on the driver side right needed replacement with another part. I had to go to the dealership three times for correction. Was told the car was safe to drive at the time. June 2022, the car is making the same cricket noises, and is unstable. It is my concern that the strut mounts/ suspension are defective and poses a risk. This may be a structural issue, since I though this was corrected last year for a young vehicle with under 50K mileage is not a normal occurrence. I am concerned something will dislodge and I may loose control on the road. I have routine maintenance and i am diligent, there is a structural and electrical issue with this vehicle make.

NHTSA ODI 11473537

THE FOLLOWING HAS NOW HAPPENED ON 3 SEPARATE OCCASIONS WHEN DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY: WHEN DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS (50 -55 MPH) AND HITTING A BUMP THAT JOLTS THE CAR (NOT NECESSARILLY A HUGE BUMP), THE ENTIRE ENGINE AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CUTS OFF AND SHUTS DOWN. THIS HAPPENS ONLY ON THE HIGHWAY AND HAS NOT HAPPENED ON STREET DRIVING YET. THE CAR POWER TURNS OFF AND THIS CAN BE VERY DISORIENTING TO AN UNSKILLED DRIVER. IT REQUIRES THAT I PUT MY CAR IN NEUTRAL (MY CAR IS A STICK SHIFT), TURN OFF THE IGNITION AND THEN TURN IT ON AND RESTART IT, WHILE MOVING AT 55MPH AT NIGHT ON A WET HIGHWAY. THE LAST TIME THIS HAPPENED IT WAS AT NIGHT AND RAINING. THIS HAS HAPPENED 3 TIMES OVER THE PAST 6 MONTHS.

NHTSA ODI 11364356

MY FRONT WINDSHIELD WIPERS DON'T WORK WHEN THE WINDSHIELD GETS WET. AFTER THE SUN DRIES THE CAR, THE WIPERS WORK FINE. I HAD TO KEEP STOPPING ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WIPING OFF THE WINDSHIELD SO I COULD SEE WHERE I WAS GOING. I ALSO TURNED ON THE DEFROSTER TO HELP DRY THE WINDSHIELD. THE AUTOMATIC DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS ONLY COME ON AT NIGHT. I HAVE TO MANUALLY TURN THEM ON DURING THE DAY.

NHTSA ODI 11021144