What 248 owners told NHTSA about the 2015 Hyundai Elantra Gt

Complete engine failure at 129k miles, 3k miles after purchasing used off Hyundai car dealerships.

NHTSA ODI 11526486

The car engine seized on me. Went to work in the am and by the afternoon the car was non drivable. Had it tolled to a Hyundai dealership and couple of other car repair shops and they all confirmed that the engine has died. I haven't even had the car for a year. There was no indicators on the screen or any kind of warning such as an engine light. Good thing the car was in park when before it seized, otherwise I could have been driving it and could have happened on the road.

NHTSA ODI 11526538

Engine stalled while going at-speed on major highway; high risk of crash if not restarted in time. Continuous repeating stalls. Hyundai inspected car twice; failed to fix the problem on the first attempt, refused to replace engine alleging that maintenance was negligent due to residue inside motor. Hyundai did not report any residue on the first inspection, and likely did not inspect engine thoroughly when stalling was initially reported to their mechanics. Odd noises from engine present for months prior to stalling.

NHTSA ODI 11518242

Unwanted sudden engine speeding up,No warning or messages.

NHTSA ODI 11516207

Transmission completely went out at 86k miles with no warning. No lights on the dash, no slow build of issues. Has always had regular maintenance since I bought the car at the dealership. Second owner, and car is paid off. Drove it one day with absolutely no issues, and the very next day, all gears were slipping and was not safely drivable. Was stopped at a stop light turning into work and when I put my foot on the accelerator, it went nowhere and I was stuck at intersection. Got it towed that day to a local repair shop since I was told my warranty for power train was expired, and have been waiting on a new transmission for 2 months now. The repair shop still doesn’t know when they’ll get it in, and will cost $4k to install. Mine is one of many they’ve said have come through with the same problem.

NHTSA ODI 11513340

The engine failed under with under 100,000 miles on the car. It dies going under 20 miles per hour. This is a safety issue because it will die anywhere and can cause wrecks due to sudden failure. The vehicle was inspected Stivers Hyundai, and they could not determine what caused the failure. The problem was confirmed with the same dealer. There were no warning lamps or signs prior to the failure. Beneath, I am reporting the issue on the date it first occurred, though it has occurred multiple times since.

NHTSA ODI 11507598

My vehicle is just over 80k miles and has received regular maintenance services. Inspection available upon request. My engine would rattle during idle, stopped at a light, and sounded as if the RPM were increasing. I would have to turn my car off then back on for it to stop. No engine or warning lights. As this became more frequent, I also noticed a very intense shaking coming from the front passenger side of the vehicle while driving on the highway. The shaking was most intense as the car accelerated from 2k-3k RPM. It felt like I could have lost control. On 11/29/22, my car was towed to a repair shop because the engine would stall when I started my car. After examination they recommended I take it to a Hyundai dealer, determined the engine may need replaced and informed me of other recalls from similar models. When the vehicle was brought to the Hyundai dealer, they stated they could not replicate the issue - the engine would start without stalling - but they also speculated my problem was from a loose cable, and attempted to send my car home with me the same day. It is important to note that the battery cable was examined and was connected prior to bringing it in to the dealer. My car is not under recall so my request was taken lightly, they stated I had no engine issues. I pressed for them to address the rattling of my vehicle, for which they then told me I had a leak in my front left axle. Axle was repaired and car brought home. My car drove for about 212 miles before it started stalling again with multiple attempts to start it. When I was able to successfully turn the engine over, I drove it back to the Hyundai dealer on 1/02/23. They found no codes but determined the crank sensor needed replaced. After replacement, they informed me my vehicle still “acted up” once, so they have held onto the vehicle for the past month, letting it sit and occasionally test driving it. Still no answer to this irregular issue.

NHTSA ODI 11505297

Multiple times now, the vehicle has stalled while I am driving and turned off. Both my battery and alternator are still good, however this continues to happen. This happens at any speed, but most commonly at low speeds, while slowing down. This typically starts with the engine chugging or the car begins lurching instead of moving fluidly. As this is happening the light cluster will also flash and then go off or will illuminate the oil pressure warning light. I have had the oil level checked and can confirm this is also not an issue. The only way to get the car back on is to put the vehicle in park, and turn it over until it starts. It will normally start on the first try but at times it has taken several attempts. Additionally the car now produces a strong exhaust smell anytime I am driving it even though it has not done so before and there are no issues with my exhaust system currently. The vehicle currently has around 180,000 miles but from what I have read on this site there are many individuals experiencing this same issue with varying mileage. This is obviously a major concern as I have kept the vehicle maintained normally and this seems to have come out of nowhere and this is a significant safety hazard both for myself and others. As many have stated already in their complaints their vehicle has also experienced this exact issue while driving putting themselves and others in danger. The only fix I have seen on the site here is to replace the engine which is absurd given that this seems to be a manufacturer issue and not on the vehicle owner from what I can tell based on the number of related complaints that are the exact same issue.

NHTSA ODI 11503475

At any given time without warning the car dies. There is a red light that is sometimes visible on the dash but flashes too quickly and tell which light it may be (due to location of light owner’s manual showing possible oil light/battery). The car has had regular scheduled maintenance. This happens when driving in everyday traffic and sometimes when going from stopped to accelerating. This happens when going in reverse or ahead. I have almost been in several different accidents due to it dying in the middle of intersections. Code reader has not been able to locate the problem because there’s no indication of a problem on the check engine light. This is a very serious problem that needs to be taken seriously before it gets someone badly injured or killed.

NHTSA ODI 11500974

Unknown cause vehicle stalls and stutters randomly and skips while driving. Stalls when at a stop randomly and when car is restarted tachometer does not register that car has been restarted.

NHTSA ODI 11499640

When driving the car shuts off. The dash lights come on oil battery check engine. Once I stop and put the car in park and restart it it will start right back up. I will die anytime and anywhere. I've been on the highway and it just stops. It does it multiple times before I get to were I need to go. I was almost hit by a semi in traffic doing 40 because it died in the lane

NHTSA ODI 11498061

The low-pressure oil light flickers at idle and then stalls the engine. This often happens at intersections while waiting for traffic to clear and then the car shuts off. The oil pressure has been tested and is at proper pressure. Additionally, the oil sending switch has been replaced. At this time the vin shows the engine is not eligible for manufacturer recall. It is my understanding that the engine shut off is by design as to preserve the engine from seizure. However, the root of the issue needs to be addressed as it is a major safety concern if the engine stops during idle in a busy intersection.

NHTSA ODI 11491097

The contact owns a 2015 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle hesitated and stalled. The contact stated that he was able to navigate the vehicle off the roadway. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the engine needed to be replaced. The dealer was notified of the failure and the contact was informed that the VIN was not covered under recall or warranty. Additionally, the contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the gear shifter only operated in second gear (D2) and the vehicle stalled without warning. The contact stated that the shifter locked Mr. Transmission where it was diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and the contact was informed that the VIN was not under recall. The failure mileage was approximately 102,000.

NHTSA ODI 11485519

The car engine started just cutting off while driving. There is no warning except for the engine, oil and battery light comes on. The dash lights and radio remain on with no engine. I have to brake and put the car in park to start the engine back up. It may do this several times before I get to my destination. I've had it looked at and diagnosed at 3 places and none can find what is wrong. The 3 lights only come on when engine stops. The car has about 53,000 miles.

NHTSA ODI 11469821

Car stutteres than stalls especially near time of oil change , oil light flashes when going moderate to low speeds and than it stutters and the engine cuts and the engine light , oil light and battery light come on if engine not started right away the power brakes and steering also die making it a dangerous situation especially on a highway happened many times between 2020-2022 but it has been getting worse happening 4 times just today 4/21/2022 Engine type NU 1.8L Car make and model:2015 Hyundai Elantra Limited

NHTSA ODI 11461672

The contact owns a 2015 Hyundai Elantra GT. The vehicle had previously been serviced under Manufacturer Campaign Number: 966 (Engine Monitoring Logic) however, after the repair, the vehicle lost motive power while his wife was driving at an undisclosed speed. The vehicle was towed back to the dealer and diagnosed with engine failure due to a rattling in the engine. The dealer informed the contact that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but declined the engine replacement. The failure mileage was 98,111.

NHTSA ODI 11461460

Car shuts down while driving. Usually as I slow down to turn, stop or change lanes. Very scarey.

NHTSA ODI 11451277

Hyndai performed a service campaign to enhance their vehicle software to better detect abnormal engine noise. Since the campaign, this vehicle has had 3 instances in 8 weeks where the P1326 Knock Signal error code was detected. Per Hyundai's Service Campaign bulletin, this code indicates engine bearing failure. When the code is detected, the check engine light flashes and the engine is limited at 2000 rpm. This has occured while driving at highway speed in heavy traffic, and there is a significant safety risk due to the vehicle's sudden and unexpected deceleration which creates a high chance of being hit from behind. Hyundai has repeatedly treated this error code as sensor and electrical problem replacing electical components, clearing the code, and allowing the vehicle to be returned to service as if normal. However, per their service campaign, the failure is due to faulty engine bearings. This action of not correcting the mechanical problem has created multiple chances of potential collision and injury.

NHTSA ODI 11447736

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2015 HYUNDAI ELANTRA. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED AND THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL AMOUNT OF SMOKE COMING FROM THE EXHAUST TIP. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE RECURRED SEVERAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER SANSONE HYUNDAI (90-100 US-1, AVENEL, NJ 07001, (888) 566-5311) TO BE DIAGNOSED. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT FAILURE WAS DUE TO OIL DEPOSITS BLOCKING THE VALVES. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 55,000.

NHTSA ODI 11404868

I NOTICED A SLIGHT TICKING SOUND AT AROUND 63,000 MILES IN MY 2015 HYUNDAI ELANTRA WHILE MY CAR WAS IDLING. I HAD THE VEHICLE DIAGNOSED BY AN ASE CERTIFIED MECHANIC. THEY DETERMINED A KNOCKING/PINGING IN THE AREA OF CYLINDER NUMBER ONE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. OIL HAS ALWAYS BEEN CHANGED AROUND 3,000 MILES. THE SOUNDS HAS PROGRESSIVELY GOTTEN WORSE AND HAS BECOME A LOUD KNOCKING SOUND WITH LOSS OF POWER. THE VEHICLE HAS ABOUT 70,000 MILES ON IT NOW AND THE ENGINE IS STARTING TO FAIL MORE. THE LOUD KNOCKING SOUND IS CONSTANT FROM IDLE THROUGH ACCELERATION. I WAS CURIOUS IF OTHER PEOPLE HAD THIS SAME ISSUE SO I DID SOME RESEARCH. MANY CARS WITH THE SAME MAKE AND MODEL WERE RECALLED FOR THE SAME ISSUE I'M HAVING. IM AFRAID THE ENGINE IS GOING TO SEIZE SOON WHILE DRIVING AND I'M CONCERNED FOR MY SAFETY. I DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH THIS PROBLEM NOW. I DON'T THINK A CAR SHOULD BE DOING THIS AT 70,000 MILES

NHTSA ODI 11404115

THERE'S A KNOCKING ,TAPPING COMING FROM MOTOR, I WAS CROSSING INTERSECTION ACROSS A HIGHWAY MY VEHICLE STALLED A BIT THOUGHT IT WAS GOING TO DIE. I RECENTLY FOUND OUT THERE WAS A CLAIM OUT THAT THE MOTORS WERE DEFECTIVE AS FAR AS PISTONS TAPPING , LOSING POWER. I HAVE CONTACTED ALL I COULD ALL SAME SAME THING , SORRY YOUR WARRANTY IS EXPIRED.I HAVE KEPT UP WITH OIL CHANGES AND MAINTENANCE CAR ONLY HAD ROUGHLY 4,000 MILES ON IT. THE EXTENDED WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER MILES OVER 10000 (IF YOUR A SECOND OWNER )OR 140000 IF YOUR ORIGINAL OWNER. I BOUGHT MY CAR FROM ENTERPRISE CAR DEALERSHIPS THEY BOUGHT IT FROM HYUNDAI. MY ISSUE IS I WAS NOT TOLD ABOUT A FAULTY ENGINE UNTIL IT WAS TO LATE. AND THAT WASN'T EVEN FROM HYUNDAI OR DEALERSHIP. IT WAS FROM THE CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT PAPER. THE REPAIRS OR REPLACEMENT OF MOTOR HYUNDAI IS OFFERING EXCLUDES PEOPLE LIKE ME THAT HAD NO IDEA AND HAVE EXCEEDED MILES OF THEIR ORIGINAL 100000 MILE WARRANTY. PEOPLE LIKE ME THAT HAD AND HAVE NO CLUE ABOUT THE ISSUES WITH MOTOR ARE AT RISK FOR STALLING OR WHATEVER ELSE BECAUSE WE WERE NOT NOTIFIED ABOUT PROBLEMS. I'M THANKFUL MY CAR DIDN'T DIE ON CROSSING HIGHWAY/ INTERSTATE WITH TRAFFIC . MY PROBLEMS WITH MOTOR THAT THEY KNEW WAS FAULTY JUST STARTED AT 127,000 MILES OR SO. PEOPLE NEED TO BE AWARE OF THESE ISSUES, HYUNDAI I FEEL ARE TRYING TO COVER UP OR REFUSE A RECALL TO SAVE THEM MONEY.

NHTSA ODI 11397741

CAR STALLS WHEN STOPPING OR IDLING IF YOU DO NOT KEEP YOUR FEET ON THE GAS. IT DOES NOT HAPPEN IN THE FIRST 10 MINS OF WARMING UP THE CAR BUT THEN HAPPENS FOR THE REMAINING TIME. I HAVE HAD A TUNE UP, THROTTLE BODY SERVICED, CRANKSHAFT SENSOR REPLACED, AND FUEL PUMP REPLACED. I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO GET THIS FIXED FOR THE LAST 3 YEARS AND NOTHING HAS HELPED.

NHTSA ODI 11395125

WHILE DRIVING MY 2015 HYUNDAI ELANTRA IT STARTED MAKING A RATTLING NOISE FROM THE AREA AROUND THE ENGINE. THIS NOISE EVENTUALLY GREW TO A LOUD KNOCKING NOISE. THE KNOCKING NOISE CONTINUED AND I BEGAN TO FEEL IT VIBRATING IN MY STEERING WHEEL. I TOOK MY CAR TO MY LOCAL HYUNDAI DEALERSHIP IN GRAND JUNCTION, CO TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT. THE SERVICE TECHNICIAN CAME OUT AND AS SOON AS I DESCRIBED IT HE SAID HE KNEW EXACTLY WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS BECAUSE THEY HAVE BEEN RECEIVING A LOT OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT IT. AFTER TURNING THE VEHICLE ON AND INSPECTING IT HE ASSURED ME THAT THE CONNECTION RODS AND BEARINGS WERE GOING OUT AND THAT I NEEDED TO REPLACE MY ENGINE THAT HAD 50,000 MILES ON IT. I WAS ALSO GIVEN THE OPTION TO ONLY REPLACE THE LOWER HALF OF MY ENGINE FOR HALF THE PRICE BUT THAT PRICE WOULD POSSIBLY EVEN OUT TO AN ENTIRE ENGINE REPLACEMENT BECAUSE THE COST OF LABOR WOULD GO UP. I DECIDED TO RESEARCH THIS ISSUE FURTHER AND HAVE FOUND THAT RECALLS HAVE BEEN ISSUED FOR SEVERAL OTHER VEHICLES WITH THE SAME ENGINE AND ISSUE BUT MY VEHICLE HAS YET TO BE PART OF THE RECALL. THIS HAS BEEN A MAJOR INCONVENIENCE FOR MY FAMILY AND I AS I HAVE NOT USED THIS VEHICLE SINCE MAY 2020 AND HAVE BEEN TOLD BY HYUNDAI THAT EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE THERE IS NOTHING THAT CAN OR WILL DO TO HELP ME BECAUSE IT HAS NOT BEEN RECALLED FOR MY VEHICLE.

NHTSA ODI 11389015

I HAVE A 2015 ELANTRA THAT DEVELOPED AN ENGINE NOISE AT 135,000 MILES. AS I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, AT A SPEED OF 65, THE ENGINE BECAME EXTREMELY LOUD. I PULLED OVER TO CHECK MY VEHICLE. I PULLED OUT THE DIPSTICK AND IT HAD METAL SHAVINGS IN THE OIL. THE CAR LOST ALL ABILITY TO MOVE. THE GAS PEDAL DID NOT WORK AND THE VEHICLE WOULD REV ON ITS OWN. I HAD IT TOWED TO A HYAUNDAI DEALERSHIP. THEY SAID THE VEHICLE ONLY HAD 1 QUART OF OIL. THE ISSUE WITH THAT, IS MY LOW OIL LIGHT NEVER CAME ON IN THE VEHICLE. THE DEALERSHIP RAN THE CODES, AND IT SHOWED NOTHING ON THE SCANNER.

NHTSA ODI 11388504

THE VEHICLE ENGINE STARTED KNOCKING AROUND 80,000 MILES. AT 101000 MILES THE ENGINE HAD A CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD TERRIBLE LOUD KNOCKING AND CRUNCHING NOISES WITH VERY LITTLE POWER. THIS HAPPENED ON THE INTERSTATE GOING 70MPH. THE KNOCKING ISSUE HAD BEEN BROUGHT UP SEVERAL TIMES TO ALLEN TURNER HYUNDAI IN PENSACOLA, FL AND IGNORES. THE SERVICE STAFF TOLD ME IT WAS BECAUSE I WAS NOT GETTING THE OIL CHANGED (I STOPPED GOING TO THEM BECAUSE OF THEIR TERRIBLE CUSTOMER SERVICE). ONCE I PRODUCED RECEIPTS PROVING THEM WRONG THEY SAID THAT I WASN'T GETTING IT CHANGED OFTEN ENOUGH EVEN THOUGH I GOT IT CHANGED ACCORDING TO THE TIME FRAME THEY TOLD AND WHAT WAS STATED IN THE OWNERS MANUAL. THEY EVENTUALLY AGREED TO FIX IT FOR $500 AFTER HAVING TO GET LOUD AND OBNOXIOUS WITH EVERYONE UP TO THE GENERAL MANAGER. IT WAS ONE OF THE MOST STRESSFUL SITUATIONS I'VE EVER HAD. THE VEHICLE STILL HAD $10,000 OWED ON THE LOAN. EVEN AFTER THE ISSUE WAS CORRECTED THE CAR NEVER GOT BACK TO WORKING WELL AT ALL. TO GET RID OF IT I HAD TO LEASE A VEHICLE FOR NEARLY $600 A MONTH TO RID MYSELF OF THE NEGATIVE EQUITY. BUYER BEWARE

NHTSA ODI 11378012