What 149 owners told NHTSA about the 2014 Chevrolet Sonic

BOUGHT USED IN AUGUST FROM A TOYOTA DEALER.CAR WAS MAKING A CHIRPING NOISE AND THE AC DID NOT WORK. DEALER. FIXED AC AND SENT TO CHEVY TO REPAIR CHIRPING NOISE.. THEN THE HEAT STOPPED WORKING AND THERE WAS NO COOLANT.. THEY FIXED SOME BRACKET OR OTHER.. NOW THE GEAR SHIFT BUTTON GETS STUCK PUSHED IN,, AND YOU CANNOT DISENGAGE TO PUT THE CAR IN PARK TO REMOVE THE KEY.. I GOOGLED THIS ISSUE AND FOUND A LOT OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT IT. THE DEALER HAS ALREADY TOLD MY 19 YEAR OLD THEY WILL NOT COVER ANY MORE REPAIRS. BUT THIS CAR IS A PIECE OF JUNK AND THEY SHOULD NOT BE ON THE ROAD ANYMORE. I SHOULD NEVER HAVE LET HER FINANCE IT. NOW I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO.

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LOSING RADIATOR COOLANT SOMEWHERE

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THIS IS A 1.4 TURBO ENGINE. IT HAS A NOISE DUE TO THE FRONT CRANK SEAL WITH A VACUUM LEAK AS PER A GM SERVICE BULLETIN P11297B. I "THINK" THIS HAS ALREADY BEEN ON A RECALL FOR THE SAME ENGINE IN THE CRUZE MODEL. IF SO WHY IS THE SONIC MODEL INCLUDED? THIS IS AN EXPENSIVE REPAIR FOR A RETIRED PERSON. ALSO THIS CAR DOESN'T HAVE 34,000 MILES ON IT YET.

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CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, CODE IS COMING UP EMISSION FUEL LEAK. TRIED REPLACING GAS CAP, DID NOT WORK. WHEN GETTING GAS, THE CAR WILL NOT TURN BACK ON, YOU HAVE TO PUMP THE GAS PEDAL TO GET IT TO COME BACK ON. IDLES HIGH AND JUMPS AFTER TURNING BACK ON

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THE BUTTON ON MY GEAR SHIFTER WAS STUCK FOR A FEW MONTHS AND THEN IT BROKE RESULTING IN ME CRASHING INTO A PARKED CAR BECAUSE I LOST CONTROL.

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THE VEHICLE HAS PREVIOUSLY HAD THE COOLANT RESERVOIR AND WATER OUTLET CHANGED NOT VERY LONG AGO. NOT I AM HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH BOTH OF THE PARTS AGAIN. RESERVOIR IS CRACKED MAKING COOLANT LEAK OUT AND THE WATER OUTLET IS BRAKING APART BECAUSE IT IS PLASTIC.

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THE GEAR BUTTON BROKE AND STICKS/IS STUCK

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BUTTON ON FLOOR-MOUNTED GEAR SHIFT STICKS IN. CAN'T GET KEY FOB OUT OF IGNITION. STICKS ALL THE TIME. SECOND INCIDENT THIS YEAR. CAN'T TURN CAR OFF. PROBLEM SO COMMON THERE ARE YOU-TUBE VIDEOS ON REPAIR TECHNIQUES. CAR IS USUALLY STATIONARY, BUT SHIFTER WON'T WORK BECAUSE OF STUCK BUTTON.

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THISNVEHICLE WAS PURCHASE ON THE YEAR 2016 OF APRIL. SO HAPPY AT FIRST BUT IN A COUPLE OF WEEKS HAVE PROBLEM WITH LIGHTS AND ONE OF TTHE COVER OF THE FRONT MIRRORS ARE MISSING . CALLED AND WENT BACK TO THE DEALER (TOYOTA OF NORTH HOLLYWOOD ) AND SAID BRING IT TO THE CHEVY BRANCH WHERE THEY CANNCHECK AND FIX IT . IT WAS STRESSING AND DEPRESSING CAUSE EVRYWEEK PASSED YOU'LL EXPERIENCED ANOTHER PROBLEM SUCH AS AIRDCONDITION AND HEATER NOT WORKING . I'VE BEEN BACK AND FORTH TO CHEVY IN VAN NUYS , CALIFORNIA BUT THEY ARE SAYING THAT THERE'S NO WARRANTY ON THE VEHICLE . I TRIED TO RETURN THE VEHICLE TO THAT DEALER BUT THEY SAID THAT MY CREDIT SCORE STILL LOW OF COURSE IT WILL SHOW THAT CAUSE I JUST BOUGHT IT AND MY CREDIT HASN'T BEEN SMESTABLISH YET , WHEN I BOUGHT IT THEY ASKED A LARGE AMOUNT $3500 OF DOWN PAYMENT DUE TO HAVING LOW SCORE. IT DOESN'T MAKE SENSE CAUSE I WILL USE A VEHICLE THAT HAS ELECTRICAL DISFUNCTIONAL. I HAVEN'T EVEN USE THE HEATER AND THE AIRCON ON THIS CAR EVER SINCE I BOUGHT IT CAUSE IT'S NOT WORKING . YOU CAN ASK THE DEALER HOW MANY TIMES I WENT THERE AND TRIED TO BEG TO GIVE ME A DIFFERENT CAR BUT NO LUCK INSTEAD I FOUND OUT THE SALES PERSON SOLD THE CAR TO ME WASN'T WORKING THERE ANYMORE . AND I WALKED OUT WITHOUT ANY HELP FROM THEM . YOU CAN EVEN ASK CHEVY IN VAN NUYS HOW MANY TIME I'VE BEEN THERE TO ASK HELP CAUSE THE DEALER ALWAYS POINTING ME BACK TO THEM . IT'S HARD TO USE A FINANCE CAR PAYING $396 SOMETHING A MONTH AND THE CAR IS NOT FUNCTIONING RIGHT . THEY HAVE ADDED A GAP INSURANCE ON MY CONTRACT AND EVEN THAT COMPANY WASN'T HELPING ME AT ALL . SO I END UP USING THIS CAR WITHOUT ACCESS ON AIRCONDITION AND HEATER . SUFFER 4 YEARS WITHOUT THESE BENEFITS . I COULDN'T AFFORD FIXING THAT EVER SINCE CAUSE IT'S TOO EXPENSIVE . YOU CAN SEE THAT I HAVEN'T PUT A LOT OF MILEAGE ON THIS CAR CAUSE I DON'T REALLY USE IT THAT MUCH. STILL PAYING THIS .

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 CHEVROLET SONIC. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 35 MPH, THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT STATED HE CONTINUED TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE TO HIS DESTINATION. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VALVE COVER, INTAKE MANIFOLD AND MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE CONTACT CALLED BANKS CHEVROLET CADILLAC BUICK GMC LOCATED AT 137 MANCHESTER ST, CONCORD, NH 03301 (844) 511-2874, TO NOTIFY THE DEALER OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS INFORMED OF FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 37,200.

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VEHICLE WAS RECALLED FOR CATALYTIC CONVERTER. RECALL WAS SERVICED BY DEALER AND PROBLEM DID NOT EXIST FOR 3 MONTHS THEN SAME ISSUE BEGAN AGAIN WITH SAME CODES BEING GIVEN BY THE VEHICLE AND EXACTLY THE SAME SYMPTOMS AND PROBLEMS AS BEFORE.

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A PIECE OF THE BUTTON ON THE GEAR SHIFT HAD BROKEN OFF AND GOTTEN JAMMED IN THE SHIFT. CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO BE UNABLE TO SHIFT OUT OF DRIVE. THIS IS A SERIOUSLY DANGEROUS ISSUE, AND IF I WAS NOT IN THE CAR WITH ANOTHER PERSON WHO WAS ABLE TO JIMMY THE SHIFT FORWARD FOR ME WHILE I HELD DOWN THE BREAK, I WOULD HAVE ROLLED FORWARD OFF THE ROAD OR INTO THE BUILDING IN FRONT OF ME. IF YOU LOOK UP THIS ISSUE MANY SONIC DRIVERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS SAME ISSUE.

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PROBLEM #1 GOT THE CAR IN 2016, AFTER ABOUT A YEAR THE SHIFTING STICKS BUTTON GOT STUCK AND BROKE. PREVENTED ME FROM CHANGING GEARS OR GETTING OUT OF PARK. HAD TO CALL FOR IT TO BE TOWED AND BUY A NEW STUCK FROM DEALERSHIP. PROBLEM #2 BEGAN GETTING A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ABOUT A FEW MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING CAR IN 2016 DUE TO ENGINE MISFIRE, FOUND OUT IN 2020 THIS WAS DUE TO THE AIR VENT TUBE UNDER THE HOOD BEING CRACKED. BOTH THESE ISSUES ARE COMMON WITH MANY CONSUMERS I HAVE READ

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TEMP 45-50 DEGREES, DRIVING IN MODERATE RAIN FOR 20-25 MINUTES, CRUISE CONTROL ON. ACTIVATE HIGH BEAMS, CAR SHIFTS TO 1ST GEAR AT 65 MPH, RPMS JUMP ABOVE 6000, TURN OFF HIGH BEAMS RETURNS TO NORMAL OPERATION. REPEATED 2 MORE TIMES IN NEXT 4 MILES, EVEN AT 25 MPH. WHEN END OF TRIP, SHUT OFF CAR AND COMPLETELY DEAD, NO LIGHTS, NO CRANKING. FOLLOWING MORNING (TODAY) CAR STARTS NORMALLY. WILL REPORT ANY FURTHER FROM MY COMMUTE TODAY, IF WARRANTED

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UPON ACCELERATING MY SONIC HAS LACK OF POWER AND GEARS DON'T ENGAGE OR THEY ARE DELAYED WHICH CAUSES ME TO BE VERY UNSAFE FROM ONCOMING TRAFFIC WHEN MY CAR DECIDES TO ENGAGE I CAN THEN CONTINUE DRIVING. I ALSO HAVE A ISSUE WITH THE CAR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM REFUSING TO CHIME WHEN KEYS ARE LEFT IN IGNITION AS A WARNING SOMETIMES I PUT MY HIGH BEAMS ON AND ALL THE LOCKS LOCK AND MY CAR DOES THE REFUSAL TO ENGAGE IN GEAR THING AGAIN AND MY LIGHTS FLICKER MY WHOLE COMPUTER SYSTEM WENT DEAD AND NO ONE CAN FIGURE OUT WHY I ONLY BOUGHT THE CAR 6 MONTHS AGO FOR 12,000 SO I COULD HAVE RELIABILITY AND I SHOULDN'T HAVE TO DEAL WITH THIS OR ANYTHING FOR QUITE SO TIME MY OLD CAR IS SAFER THAN THIS NEW ONE

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 CHEVROLET SONIC. WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE AND AN ABNORMAL NOISE WAS HEARD. ON A DIFFERENT OCCASION, IT TOOK THE CONTACT THREE ATTEMPTS TO START THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING OR REPAIRS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE TRANSMISSION WAS FLUSHED, BUT THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES AND PROVIDED A CASE NUMBER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

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I'VE HAD SEVERAL ISSUES WITH THE CAR. THE MAIN ONE BEING THAT MY ENGINE HAS WARPED AND THE CAR IS JUNK NOW AS I CAN'T AFFORD THE 5400 TO REPLACE IT. THE COOLANT KEPT LEAKING AND AFTER WATER PUMP AND THERMOSTAT REPAIRS DID NOTHING IT FINALLY BROKE DOWN. THE SHOP SAYS THE ENGINE IS SO BADLY WARPED THEY CAN'T EVEN IDENTIFY WHERE THE ORIGINAL PROBLEM MAY HAVE BEEN.

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SHIFTER BUTTON HAS CRACKED AND CAUSES THE BUTTON STUCK. THIS ALLOWS THE SHIFTER TO BE MOVED WITHOUT PRESSING THE BUTTON AND ALSO PREVENTS THE KEY FROM BEING REMOVED. THE CAR COULD EASILY ROLL AWAY IF BUMPED DUE TO IMPROPER SHIFT LOCKING. THIS CAN HAPPEN WHEN YOU'RE ALREADY IN PARK OR EVEN IN DRIVE. TONS OF COMPLAINS ONLINE THROUGH FORUMS AND VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE HOW TO REPLACE BUT COST SHOULDN'T BE UP TO OWNERS. FIX THIS CHEVY!

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DEALER SOLD ME CAR WITH BALD TIRES LESS THAN 2/32. DEALER SOLD CAR WITH FILTHY RUSTY AND LOOSE PARTS ON MANIFOLD. VALVES. STRUTS. AND TRANS MOUNT. SUSPENSION PIECES WERE BROKEN AND OLD. THE THERMOSTAT WAS PUT IN WRONG AND CAUSED DIVID IN MANIFOLD. BATTERY AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ALSO HAD ISSUES. ALL ISSUES WERE FROM MILE 1 TO 200 OF OWNING CAR.

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CANNOT TAKE THE KEY OUT WHEN CAR IS IN PARK.

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I HAD A RECALL ON A COMPONENT OF MY CATALYTIC CONVERTER THAT WAS CAUSING IT TO MOVE AT A LOW EFFICIENCY. I TOOK IT IN TO MOSS BROTHERS CHEVROLET TO BE REPAIRED. IT SEEMED FINE UNTIL 1-2 DAYS LATER WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME BACK ON. I CALLED MOSS BROTHERS TO INFORM THEM OF THIS SITUATION, HOWEVER, THEY TOLD ME THAT IF I WANTED TO GET IT DIAGNOSED AND THE PROBLEM IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, I WOULD HAVE TO PAY THE DIAGNOSTIC FEES. HOWEVER, I DID NOT HAVE ANY OTHER ISSUES WITH MY CAR BEFORE TAKING IT TO THEM. IT WASN'T UNTIL AFTERWARDS. SO IF SOMETHING OTHER THAN THE RECALL IS WRONG, I WOULD BE WILLING TO BET THAT IT WAS DUE TO NEGLIGENCE ON THEIR PART. I TOOK IT INTO AUTOZONE TO RUN A DIAGNOSTICS AND IT SAID 'CATALYST SYSTEM LOW EFFICIENCY' WHATEVER THEY DID, DID NOT FIX MY CAR BUT ONLY MADE IT WORSE. I CALLED GMC TO SEE IF THERE WAS A WAY AROUND THE FEE SHOULD IT BE A DIFFERENT CAUSE(IF IT IS, I BELIEVE IT WAS CAUSED BY MOSS BROTHERS) AND THEY WERE NOT HELPFUL TO ME AT ALL.

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I BOUGHT THIS CAR USED BACK IN OCTOBER 2017, I'VE HAD OVERHEATING PROBLEMS, THE DEALERSHIP FIXED TWICE UNDER AN EXTENDED WARRANTY THE THIRD TIME I HAD TO FIX MYSELF (THEY SAID MY EXTENDED WARRANTY EXPIRED). I NOTICED MY KEY WOULD GET STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING THE GEAR IN PARK, I DISCOVERED THE BUTTON ON MY GEAR SHIFT IS CRACKED AND I HAVE TO PULL IT ALL THE WAY PUT TO REMOVE THE KEY. THE LATEST ADVENTURE IS I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY IN THE FAST LANE AT ABOUT 75 MPH WHEN MY CAR MADE A POP NOISE THEN SLIGHTLY JERKED THEN STARTED TO SLOW DOWN. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ALONG WITH THE TRACTION LIGHT, I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY GET OVER TO THE SHOULDER I PARKED AND CUT THE CAR OFF. AFTER A FEW MINUTES I WAS ABLE TO START MY CAR BACK UP AND GET IT TO AN AUTO STORE TO FIND OUT WHY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON. THE CODES THAT CAME BACK STATED COMMUNICATION WAS LOST WITH THE TCM AND THE TCM INTERNAL TEMPERATURE WAS TOO HIGH. I WAS TOLD THE MOST LIKELY SOLUTION IS FAULTY WIRING AT THE TCM. THIS IS BECOMING A HEADACHE I'M STILL PAYING ON THIS CAR AND DOING MORE REPAIRING THAN SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE

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I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE USED IN 2016 FROM A CAR DEALERSHIP. A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO MY KEY WOULD NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION AND I HAD TO WAIT A FEW MINS THEN TRY AGAIN. NEXT TIME IT DID THAT IT TOOK 30 MINS TO REMOVE THE KEY UNTIL FINALLY THE LAST TIME IT WOULD NOT COME OUT PERIOD AND I HAD NO CHOICE BUT TO LEAVE THE VEHICLE AND HAVE IT TOWED TO THE SHOP. I HAD TO REPLACE A PART OF THE SHIFTER. THERE WAS A METAL PIECE RIGHT UNDER THE SHIFTER KNOB THAT FAILED. I HAD AUL INSURANCE VINTAGE NOW AND HAD TO PAY 500,000 DOLLARS FOR THIS REPAIR BECAUSE HE STATED THAT IT WAS NOT COVERED. PERSONALLY I DON'T BELIEVE THAT BUT I HAD NO CHOICE AND PAID TO HAVE IT FIXED. I TOOK THE VEHICLE PRIOR TO THE SHIFTER VISIT TO THE DEALERSHIL TWICE WITH A COMPLAINT OF NOT GETTING ENOUGH POWER WHEN I EXCELERATE AND IT MOVES SLOWLY AND IS AT 10-25 MPH BEFORE IT MOVES TO THE HIGHWAY SPEED OF 55MPH. THEY AGAIN SAID THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING. AGAIN TODAY I EXPERIENCE THE SLOW EXCELERATION AGAIN, SO I AM MAKING A COMPLAINT THIS TIME. THERE IS A ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE I 'VE HAD A COUPLE OF ELECTRICAL ISSUES AS WELL AS A REPLACED WATER PUMP. I GOT THIS IN 2016 IT SHOULD NOT HAVE THESE MANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS VEHICLE. I AM ALWAYS STOPPED AT A LIGHT IN THE TURNING LEFT LANE GETTING ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN THIS HAPPEN AND OTHER CARS HAVE ALMOST HIT ME SEVERAL TIMES. I WANTIT TO BE INVESTIGATED AND KNOWN BEFORE I GO BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP AGAIN AND TO BE TOLD THATTHERE S NOTHING WRONG. I SEE THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS DIM QUITE A LOT WHILE I AM DRIVING. AND WHEN IT STALL LIKE THIS THE POWER LIGHTS GET REALLY DIM BUT YOU CAN STILL SEE YOUR MPH ETC. PLEASE HELP ME SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THIS VEHICLE AND I DON'T WANT TO DIE IN IT.

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THE GEAR SHIFT BUTTON IS STICKING, WHICH IS POSING A HAZARD. THE CAR DOES NOT COMPLETE THE SHIFT OR RELEASE THE KEY UNTIL AFTER THE BUTTON UNSTICKS. IT HAPPENED WHEN I TRIED TO PARK AND IT HAPPENS WHEN I'M SHIFTING BETWEEN REVERSE AND DRIVE. ITS NOT A ONE TIME OCCURRENCE.

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A FEW YEARS AGO MY POWER STEERING WENT ON. IT WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY AND I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP TO GET REPLACED RIGHT AFTER THE WARRANTY EXPIRED THE POWER STEERING WENT OUT AGAIN. CURRENTLY MY AC IS BROKEN AND I'VE SPENT A GOOD BIT OF MONEY TRYING TO FIX IT; YET IT STILL DOESN'T WORK. NOW MY CAR WON'T START. I'VE RELPALCED THE BATTERY A COUPLE YEARS AGO BECAUSE MY CAR KEPT DYING. I BOUGHT THIS CAR BRAN NEW AND IT HAD CAUSED ME NOTHING BUT FINANCIAL ISSUES. I TRIED CONTACTING CHEVY ABOUT HIS CAR A FEW YEARS AGO WHEN THE POWER STEERING WENT OUT. EXPLAINING THAT THESE ARE MAJOR COMPONENTS OF MY CAR IT'S NOT LIKE I'M COMPLAINING ABOUT CHANGING MY TIRES OR NEW BRAKES YOU NOW NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR. I SHOULDN'T HAVE TO DEAL WITH THESE ISSUES WITH A NEW CAR. I KNOW IT'S 5 YEAS OLD NOW BUT THIS IS GETTING RIDICULOUS I STILL OWE $3800 ON MY CAR AND HAVE DEALT WITH DUMPING MONEY INTO A VEHICLE THAT SHOULDN'T OF HAD ANY OF THESE PROBLEMS IN THE FIRST PLACE. THIS HAS CAUSED UNESSASACRY STRESS IN MY LIFE. ALSO TWO OF MY WINDOWS DON'T WORK. SO MY AC IS BROKE AND I CAN'T EVEN ROLL DOWN TWO WINDOWS IT'S A DEATH SENTENCE. I'VE HAD A HEAT STROKE IN MY CAR BECAUSE OF IT. LEGITIMATELY SCARED ME.

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