What 2,743 owners told NHTSA about the 2013 Ford Escape Phev

Car has been having problems immediately with the turbocharger which then seemed fine once taken in. Only to turn around and have the transmission go out. Once again, it was taken in and was reported that there is no transmission dipstick. It is going into limp mode due to slippage detected from the B clutch pack. There is a low chance that flushing out the fluid could buy the transmission some more time, but a large amount of clutch material has been worn off the internal transmission clutch packs and is saturating the fluid. Therefore needing an entire replacement of the transmission.

NHTSA ODI 11748007

My 2013 Ford Escape, bought in September 2022 with a new engine, has been problematic. It initially worked well but lost transmission power less than a year later. I managed to drive it home, but it hasn't worked since. Two repair shops confirmed a needed new transmission, costing $6,000, and found metal shavings in the fluid. There were no warning signs before the failure. Before the transmission issue, the car needed repairs for a significant oil leak. I haven't driven it for two years due to high repair costs, yet I pay $500 monthly, causing financial strain. The dealership advised against a warranty, saying the new engine's warranty would cover issues for three years. I declined the warranty, but when the transmission failed, the dealership refused coverage, reflecting poorly on their practices. Similar complaints from other owners suggest a systemic issue, possibly warranting a recall. The lack of warning signs indicates a design or manufacturing flaw. This situation has caused financial hardship and inconvenience, turning the promise of a reliable vehicle into a nightmare. I pay $500 monthly for a non-functional car, money that could be used elsewhere. The dealership's refusal to honor the warranty feels like a betrayal, prioritizing profits over customer satisfaction. The pattern of transmission failures across vehicles suggests a need for a recall to address safety concerns and help affected owners. In conclusion, my experience with my 2013 Ford Escape has been frustrating and disappointing. From the oil leak to the transmission failure, the vehicle has been troublesome. The lack of warning signs, high repair costs, and the dealership's refusal to honor the warranty have worsened the issue. I urge Ford to take responsibility and initiate a recall for customer safety and satisfaction.

NHTSA ODI 11684132

While driving the engine seems to "go out" which is a risk to the driver, passengers, and other motorists near by because it is not expected and can happen anywhere (two lane road, major highway, while turning, etc.). You are able to press the gas and hear the engine but the car does not move - it acts as if it were in neutral. There are no safety or warning lights on the dashboard before or during this issue meaning that there is no way for the driver to prepare. There have been times where I was able to pull off the road and restart the car to temporarily remedy the issue but safe and accessible pull offs are not always available (bride, two lane road,etc). I travel with small children and there is a fear that if this continues to happen it can result in fatal consequences. In addition to the safety issue mentioned above there is a perpetual leak coming from the engine. This has progressively gotten worse and after speaking with a representative at Ford they named off a few "possible" causes but were unable to make a definitive decision. I was also informed that the issues that I am experiencing were not unique to just my vehicle but many Ford Escape 2013's in the area that had come to the dealership for guidance and help. While I have stated that the issue occurred in 2013 - it is still happening and continues to get worse.

NHTSA ODI 11672244

I have had car a month bought used and saw the recall for the transmission shifter bushing which I had done today at the Ford place . But it didn't fix the shifting problem .so took had hooked up to a machine to tell me it's the transmission solenoid b that's inside the trans mission and not covered by the recall which is insane because it's the main reason these cars are having this problem so now I can't get it fixed have had car a month and will be parking it as junk because Ford can't fix under the recall. This needs to be changed this is the main culprit not the bushings.

NHTSA ODI 11655660

The contact owns a 2013 Ford Escape. The contact stated that immediately after driving into a parking space and stopping, the vehicle suddenly experienced unintended acceleration and drove forward over a median curb before crashing into another parked vehicle. During the incident, no injuries were reported and no police report was filed. The vehicle was driven to the home and later towed to the collision center for body repairs to be performed. The cause of the failure was not determined. The manufacturer and local dealer were notified of the failure but no assistance was offered. The failure mileage was 33,437.

NHTSA ODI 11619391

The contact owns a 2013 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the accelerator pedal was depressed; however, the vehicle failed to accelerate as intended. Additionally, the contact stated that the vehicle sputtered. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed with coolant intrusion and engine failure. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 189,000.

NHTSA ODI 11605367

- Valve cover needs to be replaced - Spark plugs needs to be replaced - Power reduced message pops up probably from spark plugs - Says transmission fault probably from valve cover leaking transmission fluid - Left rear speed sensor - Turbo charger/super charger underboost - invalid data received from steering angle sensor module message popped up

NHTSA ODI 11552384

Well I went to start my car after getting gas and it would not start after a few mins it started , but it was trying to lunge forward even though it was in park , after I finally got it going went home and the whole time I smelled gas in my car ? Then I pulled in my driveway and the check engine light was on , had my brother in law do a digital scan on my car and it had PO456 evaporated emissions leak, I don't understand why , I'm scared to drive it now because I don't want to have the cab fill up with gas smell in my car and it's bad for me and my kids

NHTSA ODI 11516376

When coming to a stop the vehicle suddenly and unexpectedly accelerated making it very difficult to stop. I had to put the vehicle in neutral and turn off the engine. When I restarted the vehicle, the problem no longer existed and has not happened since but this problem could easily cause an accident, resulting in one or more injuries. Have not had the vehicle inspected and likely won't, unless it happens again.

NHTSA ODI 11506201

I picked my car up tonight from Haley’s in FarmVille va they fixed my door latches due to recall on latches. I told Them prior to dropping it off that the ABS light and traction control light and engine coolant light keeps coming on. When I pulled out the parking lot I almost got rear ended because the car didn’t want to go it was moving so slow I had to slowly make myself across the road into kfc parking lot without getting hit. Haley refuses to fix these problems bc the light automatically goes off on its own and they say it’s got to physically be on for them to fix it through recall but it keeps coming on whenever I have the car In my possession and it’s very dangerous

NHTSA ODI 11483599

We have had to replace vacuum pump 4xs ,had multiple engine repairs done, turbo replaced ,jumped time 3xs, replace ABS sensor 2xs, wheel bearings 2xs, CV axels 2xs, since day 1 has been blowing lights in turn signals and brake lights, wiring issue, have replaced control arms,tie rods,tie rod ends, and so much more, have had transmissions since day one, needs evap system repaired again, transmission replaced a second time, having power reductions, and this vechiile has costed us over 12,000, Have been informed of 2 recalls Time frame 12/2015 to current date.

NHTSA ODI 11479208

While merging onto the highway, I got into the right lane. While in motion my car stalled and went from 70 mph to 40 mph almost instantly. There have been many other times of engine stalling that has made me fear to drive this vehicle with my child. I noticed that " engine stalling" and the engine in general have been a common issue specific year make and model while researching this vehicles history. There have also been many major repairs and more needed repairs that will cost more than the vehicles worth. The turbo was recently repaired , water bypass valve , valve cover, spark plugs. With more repairs to be made due to fluids still leaking , and a certified mechanic noting that the catalytic converter will need to be replaced. The repairs done and the repairs needed will greatly cost more than the vehicles worth. I'm asking that you guys take into consideration that im still paying on this vehicle and a single mom who cannot keep putting repairs into a vehicle that i desperaetly need for transportation.

NHTSA ODI 11473957

Car falsely indicates overheating and goes into “limp mode” not allowing me to accelerate even while driving. Has occurred on freeway, while parked, in intersections, and has posed a threat to my safety over a hundred times. Been yelled at by other drivers and almost hit countless times because I’ve been unable to accelerate whilst trying to pull over safely. “Hill start assist not available” appears and then “engine fault service now” accompanied by the speedometer going to 0mph (even while driving) as well as the RPM’s going to 0. Lastly, “high engine temperature” appears and car starts shaking and lurching and the engine gets extremely loud until I’m able to turn it off. Sometimes turns back on right away, sometimes I’m stuck in car on side of road/freeway for minutes-hours. Been to 2 Ford dealerships as well as many mechanics and have been told it’s fixed several times and it has not been. After replacing transmission, spark plugs, corroded wires, coolant, and more, Ford dealership said they have no idea what is wrong with car. Exploring online I found many other reports of 2013 escapes having the same issues as well as other Ford vehicles. This has affected my safety too many times and I’m unable to find a solution anywhere. Check engine light is always on unless cleared. Has been occurring on and off (more frequently as time passes) since I got car 2.5 years ago and have been unable to receive any help or solutions. Occurs at any speed, even while in park. I have videos as well of the car not turning on and actively showing these alerts whilst I’m driving. Sometimes the car will even be “on” but the entire dash is black as if the car was off.

NHTSA ODI 11470747

While driving my vehicle is slowing down losing power it doesn't want to stay started while at a light Will hesitate to stay started and will just cut off. And hesitate to restart this is not the first time that this has happened ethier.

NHTSA ODI 11465616

Case Number: CAS-34813627-B3B3D7 On January 2nd, 2022, without warning my ABS and traction control lights went on, my speedometer fell to zero, and all of the digits usually shown (MPG, miles to empty, amount of time driven, and miles driven) were replaced by dashes. After about 10 - 15 seconds, the information came back, the speedometer worked, and the dash warning lights went off. This has occurred multiple times a day since Jan 2 while I drive my car. The Ford website described a recall that fit the description of the issues I have been having and, according to my VIN, I was eligible to get the system serviced. I took my car in to Wade Ford in Atlanta, GA on January 5, 2022. A diagnostic test reported code PC0031, but only codes P1934 and P062C are considered eligible. I called Ford and opened a case (see Line 1). After waiting a few hours to hear back from Ford, I had to check in at work and perform a COVID test to remain eligible to work the rest of this week per their COVID protocol. On my way there, my throttle became unresponsive as I was getting on the highway. The acceleration came back a few seconds later, narrowly avoiding the car behind me running into my bumper. After testing, I returned to the dealership to find no progress had been made due to Ford being unresponsive. The agent has not responded or updated me, but she stated on an earlier call she was working on consulting her supervisor on my case. Further attempts to call Ford have been unsuccessful. Because this issue is not recognized under any Ford warranty, I have no lease or lease reimbursement options. The cost of having Ford fix the bug they downloaded into my car is into the hundreds of dollars. Even if Ford does decide to fix the issue, I have no assurance this issue won't happen again at the next software update. My vehicle is not safe to be driven at this point. Suddenly having no reliable vehicle is affecting my work and medical appointment schedules, costing me time and money.

NHTSA ODI 11446350

SHUDDERING SINCE IT WAS BOUGHT AS A USED CAR NOW DANGEROUS TO DRIVE ,HARD TO STOP ENGINE SHAKES AND SHUDDERS IN A FRIGHTENING MANNER. NOW SO BAD AT IDLE IN PARK, PUT TRANSMISSION IN DRIVE AND THE CAR TRIES TO TAKE OFF AND IS DIFFICULT TO HOLD BACK WITH THE BRAKES

NHTSA ODI 11413899

I HAVE A 2013 FORD ESCAPE SE, 1.6 L AND RECENTLY IT WILL ACT LIKE IT IS NOT IN GEAR WHEN DRIVING, THE ENGINE WILL NOT REVE UP, NOTHING HAPPENS WHEN PRESSING GAS PEDAL. ON OCCASION SHE SAID THE BATTERY LIGHT AND OIL LIGHT WOULD COME ON WHEN IT DOES THIS. SHE TURNS OFF IGNITION, RESTART AND IS FINE TILL NEXT TIME. BECOMING MORE FREQUENT. HAPPENS AT ALL SPEEDS.

NHTSA ODI 11404045

CAR CUTS OFF WHEN ACCELERATING AFTER A WARM START (CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN WITH NO PROBLEMS, SITS FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES AND THEN IS RESTARTED). CAR STARTS EASILY, IS DRIVEN OUT OF A PARKING LOT, BRAKES ARE APPLIED BEFORE PROCEEDING TURNING ON MAIN ROAD, CAR ENGINE CUTS OFF. THIS IS THE SCENARIO EACH TIME. DOESN'T HAPPEN EVERY TIME CAR IS DRIVEN BUT IT IS A CONSTANT SAFETY ISSUE. ALWAYS HAVE TO MAKE SURE NO TRAFFIC IS COMING WITHER WAY BECAUSE CAR HAS TO BE PLACED IN PARK TO RESTART. CAR SHOWS NO CODES WHEN PLACED ON COMPUTER. DEALER SAYS THEY HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THIS RECALL OR PROBLEM. PROBLEM IS INTERMITTENT SO IMPOSSIBLE TO DEMONSTRATE TO DEALER. ONLINE RESEARCH INDICATES MANY PEOPLE EXPERIENCING THIS PROBLEM WITH THIS ENGINE BUT NO SOLUTION AVAILABLE, JUST MANY SUGGESTIONS. SO RESOLUTION IS UNKNOWN.

NHTSA ODI 11395427

I JUST CAME OUT OF A STATE INSPECTION A FEW MONTHS LATER THE ENGINE OVERHEATS AND THE CAR JUST SHUTS OFF. NOW, IF I HAD ONE FORD I WOULD NOT PAY ATTENTION TO THIS, BUT I HAVE MORE THAN ONE AND THE SAME THING HAS HAPPENED. NOW, AT TIMES WHERE THERE'S A RECALL, BUT WHEN THEY HAVE OTHER ITEMS THAT GET FIXED WITHOUT A RECALL, WE NEVER HEAR ABOUT THAT. I KNOW I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE. THIS HAS NEVER HAPPENED ON THIS CAR, BUT MY FORD FOCUS, AND IT HAPPENS AFTER A CAR HAS BEEN IN FOR SERVICE LATELY DURING THE VIRUS WORST FOR SOME REASON. THIS IS A DANGER AND COULD KILL SOMEONE ON A FREEWAY. AS WHEN THE CAR STOPPED ON A RECALL BEFORE. FROM THE DOORS OPENING ON THE FREEWAY TO THIS MESS. FORD NEEDS TO BE INVESTIGATED AT A HIGHER LEVEL. I DO KNOW MY ANTIFREEZE HAS BEEN WATER DOWN AS I FOUND OUT TODAY, UCZ THEIR ORANGE FLUID HAS BEEN DISCONTINUED FOR OVER A YEAR I WAS TOLD.

NHTSA ODI 11387732

2013 FORD ESCAPE. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO INOPERABLE DOOR CODE ON DRIVERS DOOR AND INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED WHILE THE HANDLE ABOVE THE DOOR TO GET IN THE VEHICLE, IT SNAPPED. THE CONSUMER FELL TO THE GROUND AND BROKE HER FOOT. ALSO, THE INSTUMENT PANEL AND CRUISE CONTROL WERE INOPERABLE. *JS

NHTSA ODI 11382703

STARTING IN MAY OF 2020 MY FORD ESCAPE STARTED STALLING WHILE DRIVING ON THE STREET AS WELL AS THE EXPRESSWAY IT HESITATES IT DOES NOT ACCELERATE THE MOMENT YOU TAP THE ACCELERATOR THE CAR STARTS TO SPUTTER AND THEN COMPLETELY STALLS OUT AND STOPS IN THE MIDDLE OF WHEREVER YOU ARE THE STREET PARKING LOT IT DOESN'T MATTER IT ALSO HAS DONE THIS BACK-TO-BACK MULTIPLE TIMES OCCURRING MAYBE FOUR TO SIX TIMES IN A ROW BARELY ALLOWING ME TO MAKE IT FROM ONE DESTINATION TO THE OTHER. THE ESCAPE ALSO OVERHEATED REPLACED THE COOLANT SENSOR REPLACED THE FUEL REGULATOR AND IT STILL DOES THE SAME EXACT THING. IT JUST DECREASED THE AMOUNT OF TIMES THAT IT WOULD DO IT IN A ROW SO NOW IT DOES IT TO THREE TIMES. IT ALSO STALLS OUT AND DIES WHILE IT STOPLIGHTS MAKING LEFT OR RIGHT TURN AS YOU'RE APPROACHING AN INTERSECTION COMING TO A STOP BARELY HITTING THE ACCELERATOR

NHTSA ODI 11375732

MY SUV HAS SUDDENLY LOSS ACCELERATION WHEN PULLING OUT FROM A PARKING SPACE, STOP SIGN AND OUT OF A RESTAURANT PARKING LOT ONTO THE HIGHWAY. IT WILL SPUTTER LIKE IT'S NOT GETTING GAS AND TWO TIMES HAS COMPLETELY CUT OFF WHILE STILL IN DRIVE. I HAVE SMASHED THE GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR TO NO AVAIL NOTHING HAPPENED. THE SUV DIDN'T SPEED UP NOR START TO EVEN MOVE FAST. IT WOULD SLOWLY JERK ONTO THE ROAD, AND AS I SAID TWICE HAS CUT OFF ANOTHER TIME IT DID FINALLY GET GAS AND GO. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP, BUT NO CODES SHOWED UP ON THE MACHINE THAT ANYTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE SUV. THERE IS DEFINITELY SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT, BESIDES ME BEING NERVOUS TO PULL OUT INTO TRAFFIC WITHOUT GETTING HIT BECAUSE THE SUV WON'T ACCELERATE DOWN THE ROAD. IT HAS ALSO CUT OFF WHILE SITTING IN MY DRIVEWAY IDLE. IT DOES START TO SHIMMER/SHAKE LIKE IT'S NOT IDLED HIGH ENOUGH AND THEN IT JUST CUTS OFF.

NHTSA ODI 11374207

MY SISTER HAS BEEN USING MY VEHICLE TO TAKE ME TO MY APPOINTMENTS HERE ARE HER WORDS DESCRIBING HER EXPERIENCE WHILE DRIVING MY 2013 FORD ESCAPE SE ECOBOOST: 'THIS SUV HAS ISSUES WITH ACCELERATION AND OVERALL PERFORMANCE. THERE ARE MAJOR DELAYS WHEN GAS PEDAL IS BEING PRESSED (SOMETIMES ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR) WITH VERY HIGH RPM'S WHILE IN MOTION HESITATION IS SPECIFICALLY TRUE WHEN TRAVELING UPHILL WILL STAY SAME SPEED UNTIL YOU'RE NO LONGER ON AN INCLINE & ACCELERATION WILL INCREASE WHEN THE GAS PEDAL IS SLOWLY BEING RELEASED THEN NEEDS TO BE PUSHED DOWN NORMAL FORCE TO KEEP AT THE SPEED CONSISTENTLY. WAS ON HIGHWAY DOING 65 SLOWED DOWN I TAKE EXIT HAD TO MERGE ONTO ANOTHER MAJOR HIGHWAY & HAD GAS PEDAL COMPLETELY DOWN WHILE DOING 45 GOT TO 50 & IT NEARLY GOT ME KILLED WHEN A 18 WHEELER CAME UP BEHIND ME I'M ASSUMING THEY EXPECTED MY VEHICLE TO CCELERATE BUT DESPITE MY DON'T BEING ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THERE GAS PEDAL IT TOOK TOO LONG TO REACH 65 MPH AT 50 MPH RPM'S REVVED HIGH AT 5 RPM. THIS IS JUST ONE SITUATION I'VE ENCOUNTER WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY WITH THIS VEHICLE. ALSO HAVE HAD ISSUES KEEPING COOLANT IN VEHICLE HAVE TO ADD MORE EVERY FEW MONTHS, AC WORKS AS IT CHOOSES & JUST HAD AN ISSUE WITH STALLING WHILE IN IDLE WAITING IN TRAFFIC BUT THAT'S A RANDOM UNEXPECTED EVENT HAPPENS SPORADICALLY SOMETIMES I'M NOT SURE IF IT'S GOING TO START AGAIN AND AFTER MANY ATTEMPTS IT STARTS AND I WON'T HAVE A PROBLEM. WITH THAT FOR DAYS MAYBE WEEKS UNTIL IT HAPPENS AGAIN.'

NHTSA ODI 11366112

I WILL BE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THE CAR GOES INTO LIMP MODE. THE RPMS GO WAY DOWN AND NO MATTER HOW MUCH I PRESS THE GAS, I CAN NOT GET CAR TO GO. I'VE HAD IT TO THE GARAGE SEVERAL TIMES. THEY HAVE REPLACED AIR COOLANT PARTS, AIR FILTER, AND SEVERAL OTHER THINGS. CAR CONTINUES TO GO INTO LIMP MODE. NO WARNING LIGHTS COME ON. FORD DEALERSHIP I TALKED WITH SAYS THERE ARE NO RECALLS ON SUCH A THING. THEY DID OFFER TO DO A DIAGNOSTIC TEST, BUT WHY? NOTHING CAME UP ON DIAGNOSTICS TEST WITH OTHER GARAGE. FORD COMPANY- THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS!! I ALMOST GOT REAR ENDED BY A SEMI AS THE CAR DID THIS WHILE I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY. MAYBE THE ANTIFREEZE LEAKING, THIS LIMP MODE, AND OTHERS HAVING THEIR CARS STALL COMPLETELY IS ALL ONE PROBLEM?? I'M HOPING YOU CAN HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM! AT LEAST TELL US HOW TO FIX IT BEFORE WE NEED A NEW ENGINE, WHICH IT SOUND LIKE THAT IS WHAT OTHERS HAVE HAD TO DO.

NHTSA ODI 11354927

THE COOLANT IS LEAKING. IT REQUIRES ME TO FILL IT UP MULTIPLE TIMES WEEKLY. I HAVE ALREADY BEEN TO AN AUTOMOTIVE SHOP TO GET THIS 'FIXED' AND IT HAS CONTINUED TO PERSIST. I CAN'T SEE WHERE IT IS LEAKING. IT DOES NOT END UP ON THE GROUND WHERE I PARK IT. MY COOLANT LEVEL LOW ALERT POPS UP WHEN I AM BOTH ACTIVELY DRIVING AND WHEN I TURN THE CAR ON AT TIMES. THE MAJORITY OF THE TIME IT HAPPENS WHILE ACTIVELY DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY OR IN THE CITY. THE ACCELERATOR SEEMS OFF. IT HESITATES WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE. I HAVE ALSO BROUGHT THIS IN TO AN AUTOMOTIVE SHOP AND THEY THOUGHT IT WAS THE BATTERY. THEY REPLACED MY LESS THAN 1 YEAR OLD BATTERY WITH A BRAND NEW ONE. THE PROBLEM HAS PERSISTED EVEN AFTER BATTERY REPLACEMENT. THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS ACCELERATING AND CAN HAPPEN ON ANY ROAD TYPE.

NHTSA ODI 11349570