What 217 owners told NHTSA about the 2013 Chevrolet Sonic

MY 2013 CHEVY SONIC DEVELOPED TICKING SOUND SHORTLY AFTER I BOUGHT IT AT 60000 MILES. THE TICKING GOT WORSE OVER TIME AND THEN CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I SCANNED THE CODES AND MULTIPLE FOUR CODES WERE FOUND. P0171, P0496, P1101, AND P2270. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH IT SEEMED TO BE THAT MOST CRUZE, SONIC, AND TRAX VEHICLES ALL HAD THE SAME ISSUES. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTICS AND WAS INFORMED THE VEHICLE NEEDED A NEW INTAKE MANIFOLD, PURGE VALVE, PCV HOSE, AND VALVE COVER. THEY CALLED THE DEALERSHIP TO SEE IF THERE WERE ANY RECALLS AND THE ONLY ONE WAS THE VALVE COVER BUT WOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR DIAGNOSTICS TO SEE IF THEY WOULD COVER IT OR NOT. THE BREATHER DIAPHRAGM IN THE VALVE COVER GOES BAD DUE TO A FAULT INTAKE MANIFOLD ON THESE VEHICLE MODELS. THERE IS A LITTLE ORANGE GASKET IN THE MANIFOLD THAT GOES BAD AND CAUSES THE DIAPHRAGM TO GO OUT RESULTING IN HAVING TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE SYSTEM. THE INTAKE MANIFOLD NOT ONLY CAUSES GHAT ISSUE BUT CAUSES THE CAR TO GET JUMPY AT STOPS AND STALLING OUT. HAVE ALMOST HAD A FEW PEOPLE REAR END ME DUE TO THIS. THE PURGE VALVE GOES OUT AS WELL AND WHEN AT THE FUEL PUMP THE CAR WILL HESITATE TO CRANK OR RUN AT VERY LOW IDLE SHUTTING OFF MULTIPLE TIMES BEFORE IT STARTS UP AND THEN RUNS ROUGH UNTIL A DECENT AMOUNT OF FUEL HAS RAN THROUGH THE ENGINE. THE CAR WOULD NOT GET ENOUGH FUEL WHEN AT STOPS OR ON HIGHWAYS AND WOULD ALSO JUST LOSE FUEL AND CUT THE ENGINE OFF. THOSE COMPONENTS HAVE SINCE BEEN REPLACED BY MYSELF AND NO MORE ISSUES. CHEVY WILL NOT RECALL THE PARTS THAT ARE CAUSING THE ISSUES AND THEREFORE THERE IS A SAFETY ISSUE WHEN OUT ON THE HIGHWAYS.

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THE FUEL SYSTEM IS RUNNING WEAK, FOR A CAR WITH ONLY 30000 MILES, ONE OWNER AND FULL MAINTENANCE, THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME AND GO ALL THE TIME AND EVERYTHING WAS CHECKING

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THE PCV PRESSURE REG VALVE FAILS AND CAUSES DAMAGE TO THE ENGINE. GM SENT A LETTER TO CUSTOMERS BUT ONLY COVERS THE WORK UP TO 120K MILES. MINE FAILED AT 125K MILES AND COST OVER $1000 TO FIX. GM IS REFUSING TO PAY FOR THE REPAIRS.10/15/2020

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MY POWER STEERING KEEPS GOING OUT, I HAVE TO TAP ON THE BATTERY POST CONNECTORS AND THE POWER STEERING STARTS WORKING AGAIN. SOMETIMES A WARNING LIGHT COMES ON, SOMETIMES NOT. MY DAUGHTER WAS DRIVING GOING AROUND A BEND IN THE ROAD WHEN THE POWER STEERING WENT OUT, ALMOST LOST CONTROL. MY ODOMETER QUIT WORKING, I TOOK IT TO A SHOP AND WAS TOLD IT'S A COMMON PROBLEM. WHY IS THIS NOT ON RECALL IF A CHEVROLET MECHANIC IS TELLING ME IT'S A COMMON PROBLEM...VERY EXPENSIVE AND UNNECESSARY AND SHOULD BE ON RECALL IF IT'S THAT COMMON.

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MY SONIC HAD THE SAME ISSUE AS NHTSA RECALL NO. : 19E-064, MANUFACTURER RECALL NO. : N192223230. EXCEPT, IT HAPPENED WHEN I REACHED TO USE THE WIPERS RATHER THAN HITTING THE KEY FOB WITH MY LEG. I REACHED TO USE THE WIPERS AND MY ARM HIT THE KEY FOB, KNOCKING IT INTO THE NEXT POSITION, TURNING OFF THE ENGINE. IT COULD HAVE JUST AS EASILY MOVED OVER ONE MORE AND LOCKED THE STEERING. THE RECALL WAS DONE ON THE CAMARO'S, SO WHY WASN'T IT DONE ON ANY OTHER VEHICLE USING THE SAME KEY FOB AND IGNITION REPLACEMENT? WAS IT BECAUSE THE CAMARO'S PRICE IS 4 TIMES THE PRICE OF A SONIC? ARE CAMARO DRIVERS MORE VALUABLE THAN SONIC DRIVERS? THERE IS A CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT INCLUDING THE CAMARO RECALL, BUT NOT THE SONIC. HTTPS://WWW.GMIGNITIONSWITCHECONOMICSETTLEMENT.COM/ I REPORTED THIS BACK IN 2014, AND NEVER HEARD A WORD ABOUT IT.

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I OWN A 2013 CHEVY SONIC. THE KEY FOB IS HUGE. IN FACT, THERE HAVE BEEN TIMES WHEN I ATTEMPT TO USE MY WIPER CONTROLS AND I HAVE ACCIDENTALLY HIT THAT KEY FOB AND TURNED THE CAR OFF. LUCKILY, I WAS NOT MOVING AT THE TIME, BUT BECAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM IT'S EXTREMELY POSSIBLE AND LIKELY THAT THE SAME COULD HAPPEN WHILE DRIVING AND POSSIBLY BE KNOCKED ALL THE WAY OVER WHERE IT WOULD NOT ONLY TURN THE CAR OFF, BUT ALSO LOCK THE STEERING. I WENT TO A DEALER AND HEARD A RUMOR THE SAME PROBLEM EXISTS FOR THE CAMARO'S AND GM CREATED KEYS WITH THE ELECTRONICS IN THEM TO USE IN PLACE OF THE KEY FOB'S. THEY ARE ABOUT 2 INCHES SHORTER. WHY THIS WAS NOT DONE FOR ANY VEHICLE BY GM THAT USES THE SAME KEY FOB'S AND IGNITIONS, I DON'T UNDERSTAND. I PERSONALLY GOT THE DEALER TO MAKE ME A SET OF THESE KEYS TO SEE IF THEY WOULD WORK IN MY SONIC. IT COST ME $80.00, BUT FOR THE SAFETY VALUE I PAID FOR THEM. I THINK THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL/REPAIR OR A CLASS ACTION SUIT BECAUSE IT SCARED ME WHEN IT HAPPENED, AND I WORRY IT WILL HAPPEN TO OTHERS WHO HAVEN'T HAD IF HAPPEN, BUT ARE UNAWARE OF THE POSSIBILITY.

NHTSA ODI 11360898

I PURCHASED MY VEHICLE 3 YEARS AGO PREOWNED FROM THE DEALER AND WITHIN THESE 3 YEARS I HAVE ALREADY HAD A CATALYTIC CONVERTER RECALL, THE ISSUE RECENTLY IS MY AC SYSTEM IN MY CAR IS OUT AND AS A DID RESEARCH ON THE SPECIFIC YEAR THERE'S PEOPLE WHO HAVE ALREADY REPLACED THE AC SYSTEM UP TO 5 TIMES FOR 2013 SONICS. THIS IS A MANUFACTURING ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE FIXED ON CHEVROLET'S BEHALF.

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STATIONARY. THE KEY LOCKS IN THE IGNITION BECAUSE THE GEAR SHIFT BUTTON ON THE FRONT OF THE SHIFT DOES NOT RELEASE. YOU HAVE TO RELEASE THE BUTTON BY PRESSING YOUR FINGER OR AN OBJECT TO RELEASE THE BUTTON TO RELEASE THE KEY FOB. THIS IS FRUSTRATING, ANNOYING AND A HAZARD. . THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE ACCOUNTABLE FOR THIS MALFUNCTION. ONE DOES NOT BUY A CAR NEW OR USED AND EXPECT TO DEAL WITH THIS FAULTY MECHANISM. ACCORDING TO A GM/CHEVROLET DEALER, THE ENTIRE GEAR SHIFT MUST BE REPLACED. I BELIEVE GM WAS AND IS FULLY AWARE OF THIS MALFUNCTION AND NEGLECTED TO RESOLVE THE PROBLEM.

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I'VE BEEN HAVING A LOT OF PROBLEMS WITH THE AIR CONDITIONER FOR THE LAST COUPLE WEEKS I BOUGHT IT USED. I JUST SPENT $900 ON A NEW COMPRESSOR FOR THE AIR CONDITIONING AIR SWITCH AND NOW THEY'RE SAYING THAT IT'S ALL ELECTRICAL ISSUES. I WAS WONDERING IF THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE AIR CONDITIONER UNIT FOR A 2013

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CODE 84 WHILE DRIVING ON REGULAR ROAD AT NORMAL SPEED. CAR GOES INTO POWER REDUCTION MODE. IT'S DIFFICULT TO ACCELERATE AND THE "SEE MECHANIC" SYMBOL ON THE DASH. TOOK IT TO MIDAS, HAD THE PEDAL ASSEMBLY REPLACED AND ELECTRICAL WIRES GREASED. NEXT WEEK SAME THING, REPLACED PEDAL ASSEMBLY AGAIN. SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN TODAY. DRIVING IN NICE WEATHER GOING UNDER 45MPH. STABILITRACK LIGHT COMES ON AND POWER REDUCTION TURNS ON. TURN CAR OFF, SIT A MINUTE, TURN BACK ON, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND POWER REDUCTION OFF. WILL HAPPEN AGAIN. EVERY DAY FOR THE LAST 3 WEEKS AFTER ABOUT A YEAR AGO HAVING PEDAL ASSEMBLY REPLACED. CODE 84 CAME ON AGAIN TODAY, TOOK TO THE MECHANIC, THEY SAY EVERYTHING IS RUNNING FINE WITH THE DIAGNOSTIC READING. NOT SURE WHY THE POWER REDUCTION COMES ON. I HAVE TRIED DRIVING WITH TRACTION CONTROL OFF, TC OFF AND STABILITRACK OFF. NEW TIRES, NEW BRAKES, NEW WINDSHIELD (REPLACED WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR IN CASE THERE WAS AN INTERNAL LEAK. NO WATER INTRUSION WAS FOUND BY THE MECHANICS. I CANNOT DRIVE THE CAR SAFELY ON THE BUSY ROAD I WORK ON. CAR WILL GO INTO POWER REDUCTION AT RANDOM EVEN WHEN ON THE HIGHWAY, CAUSING THE CAR TO LOSE ABILITY TO ACCELERATE FAST ENOUGH TO NOT GET HIT. ALWAYS WHILE DRIVING. SOMETIMES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON AND SOMETIMES IT'S NOT ON AT ALL. INTERMITTENT POWER REDUCTION. MECHANICS SAY COULD BE AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE BUT COULDN'T FIND THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING ON AND OFF FOR OVER A YEAR AND NO SOLUTION HAS BEEN FOUND. ALL REGULAR MAINTENANCE IS SCHEDULED IN A TIMELY FASHION. UNKNOWN CAUSE OF SAFETY ISSUE

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WAS UNABLE TO GET KEY OUT OF IGNITION DUE TO THE GEAR SHIFT BUTTON BEING STUCK IN.

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LEAKING WATER PUMP

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IT STARTED WITH THE RADIO GOING DARK SOMETIMES NOT WORKING THEN THE WINDOWS WONT" GO DOWN THEN MY CAR WOULD NOT TURN ON TOOK IT TO MANY MECHANICS NO ONE COULD FIGURE OUT WHAT'S WRONG FINALLY ONE TOLD ME THAT SOME SONICS HAD A RECALL AND IT WAS DOING THE SAME THING AS MINE.THIS IS MORE OFTEN IT WAS ONCE IN A WHILE BUT NOW IS VERY OFTEN MY RADIO DOESN'T COME ON AND MY HEAD LIGHTS KEEPS GOING OFF TOO. *TR

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THE MYLINK STEREO SYSTEM ALL THE SUDDEN BEGAN CHANGING STATIONS ON ITS OWN CONSTANTLY. IT REPROGRAMMED ALL STATIONS TO THE SAME CHANNEL, THE TOUCH SCREEN WILL NOT RESPOND TO TOUCH. BLUETOOTH HANDS FREE HAD TO BE DISCONNECTED BECAUSE IT ALSO RANDOMLY CALLS PEOPLE IN MY RECENTLY CALLED LIST, OFTEN CLIENTS. I HAVE A PREPAID XM SUBSCRIPTION BUT CANNOT USE MY RADIO AT ALL. THERE ARE A NUMBER OF US WITH THE SAME ISSUE AND WE HAVE IDENTIFIED EACHOTHER IN A FACEBOOK GROUP. THERE ARE AT LEAST 10-15 PEOPLE WHO ARE CURRENTLY EXPERIENCING THE SAME ISSUE. THE STEREO ACTUALLY CALLED 911 ONE DAY BECAUSE I HAD RECENTLY DIALED THE NUMBER TO REPORT AN ACCIDENT OUTSIDE MY HOME. THIS COULD CAUSE SAFETY ISSUES. THIS HAPPENS WHETHER THE VEHICLE IS IN MOTION OR PARKED, ANY TIME OF DAY. IT'S LIKE THE STEREO HAS JUST GONE HAYWIRE. *TR

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THE FUEL GAUGE IS NOT RUNNING RIGHT I HAD TO PUT STUFF IN TO CLEAN IT OUT THEN IT STILL DRINK THE GAS SO MUCH NO LEEK OR HOLES BUT THE CAR DRINKS SO MUCH GAS I HAVE TO FILL IT UP AT LEAST 2 TO 3 TIME IN 2 WEEKS SO THE STEERING IS BAD ON IT AS WELL WHEN U TAKE YOUR HAND OFF THE WHEEL IT WANTS TO THE RIGHT ON IT'S OWN IT DOSE NOT DRIVE STRAIGHT WHEN U TAKE YOUR HANDS OFF THE STEERING WHEEL IT SUCKS U GUYS NEED TO LOOK AT THIS BEFORE SOMEONE GET KILLED FROM THE STEERING WHEEL AND THE GAS LINE ASAP

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WE BOUGHT THE CAR USED AND EVER SINCE THEN IT HAD A WEIRD DOUBLE LOCKING MECHANISM, SUCH AS WHEN I PUT IT IN PARK IT WOULD UNLOCK BUT WHEN I WENT TO OPEN THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IT WOULD LOCK ITSELF AS I WAS IN THE PROCESS OF OPENING IT. SO IT WOULD BE SLIGHTLY OPENED AND I'D HAVE TO PRESS THE BUTTON TO UNLOCK IT TO OPEN THE DOOR. IT DID THIS OFTEN ONLY ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. THEN ONE DAY AFTER I HAD DROVE IT SOMEWHERE WE CLOSED THE DOOR FOR 2 MINS MAX WHEN WE WENT TO USE THE KEY FOB TO OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE DOOR WAS PARKED IN A DRIVEWAY THE CAR DOOR LOCK WOULD GO UP THEN IMMEDIATELY BACK DOWN. THE ONLY WAY WE COULD OPEN THE PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WAS TO TRY AND OPEN IT AS THE DOOR LOCK WENT UP BEFORE IT CAME BACK DOWN, WHICH WAS POSSIBLE BUT AFTER GETTING IN THERE WAS NO WAY TO OPEN THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR AT ALL. IT WAS AS IF THE CAR DOOR LOCK STICK DIDN'T GO UP ALL THE WAY TO ACTUALLY UNLOCK THE DOOR. THERE'S ALSO NO WAY TO GET THE DOOR PANEL OFF WITH THE CAR DOOR BEING CLOSED. WE'VE TAKEN IT TO DIFFERENT PLACES THAT HAVE ACTUALLY NO IDEA WHAT'S WRONG WITH IT. THIS IS SUCH A HUGE SAFETY PROBLEM WITH THE CAR DOOR NOT BEING ABLE TO OPEN AT ALL IF THERE WAS A CAR CRASH OR ANYTHING.

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MY CAR HAS LEAKED OUT ITS ENTIRE COOLANT TWICE NOW WITHIN A SIX MONTH PERIOD. THIS TIME IT HAS LEAKED FLUID ONTO THE COMPUTER CAUSING FURTHER ISSUES THAN AFTER THE FIRST FIX. THE LACK OF A TEMPERATURE GAUGE TO PREVENT THE CAR FROM OVERHEATING IS A HUGE ISSUE. I CONSTANTLY MAKE SURE THERE IS COOLANT BEFORE DRIVING THE VEHICLE AND ALL IN THE SAME DAY IT HAS EMPTIED WITHOUT MY KNOWLEDGE CAUSING A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND BREAKDOWN INSTANTLY. IT HAS HAPPENED TWICE NOW WITH MY TODDLER IN THE VEHICLE, THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL BECAUSE FORTUNATELY IT HAS HAPPENED WHILE ON STREET ROADS, WHERE I COULD IMMEDIATELY AND SAFELY MOVE INTO A PARKING LOT, AND NOT THE HIGHWAY BUT THIS SITUATION PUTS MY CHILD'S HEALTH AT RISK AND THAT I AM NOT OKAY WITH.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 CHEVROLET SONIC. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE STOPPED, THE VEHICLE STARTED SHAKING ABNORMALLY AND STALLED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO BOB GRIMM CHEVROLET LOCATED AT (2271 S MAIN ST, MORTON, IL 61550, (309) 263-2241) WHERE AN APPOINTMENT WAS SCHEDULED TO HAVE THE VEHICLE DIAGNOSED AND TEST DRIVEN. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 99,000.

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I BOUGHT MY VAN CHRYSLER PACIFICA BACK ON JULY 30 2018 AFTER COUPLE MONTHS AFTER I STATER NOTICING SLIDING DOOR DRIVER SIDE WHEN TRYING TO CLOSE IT EITHER BY KEY FOB INSIDE BUTTON NOR DOOR WAS NOT CLOSING ANY ONCE NEED IT TO TRY 3 OR 4 TIMES TO CLOSE ALL THE WAY THEN RADIO TURNING OFF I CALLED A WEB CALLED PACIFICA CARES THEN I WAS REACH BY THEM I WAS TOLD TO PROVIDE A EMAIL PHONE NUMBER TIME AND DATE OF APPOINTMENT NAME AND ADDRESS OF THE DEALERSHIP THEN Y WAS REACH BY ONE CASE MANAGER I SHARE WITH HER THE ISSUES WE AGREED ON THE APPOINTMENT AT THE DATE AND TIME WHICH WAS YESTERDAY 2/26/2020 8 AM SHE SAID SHE CALLED THEM EXPLAINED TO THEM WHAT WAS GOING TO HAPPEN AT THE DATE AND TIME SO I GOT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND NONE HAD A CLUE ABOUT MY REASON SO I EXPLAINED TO SERVICE PERSON HE SAID YOU CAN'T GENERALIZED AND SAID THE ISN'T NO ISSUES WHATSOEVER WHICH PACIFICAS I CALLED CASE MANAGER BUT SHE WASN'T REACHABLE BECAUSE SHE'S IN OTHER STATE SO I WAS TOLD BY ADVISOR AT THE SERVICE THAT SHE NEVER TALK TO HIM AFTER TWO HRS I WAS REACH BY MY CASE MANAGER AND THEN EXPLAINED TO ME THAT I NEED IT TO PAY THE DIAGNOSTIC TO BE ABLE TO MOVE FORWARD IN THE CASE WHICH IT COST 140$ I TOLD HER THAT I WAS NEVER TOLD THAT I NEED IT TO COVER THAT OUT OF MY PACKET BEFORE THEY CAN MAKE ANY DECISION AT THIS POINT I'M VERY DISAPPOINTED AND UPSET BECAUSE I WAS NEVER TOLD THAT I NEED IT TO PAY FOR THIS DIAGNOSIS IF I CAN GET ANY HELP WILL APPRECIATE

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BUTTON ON GEAR SHIFT GETS STUCK IN THE PUSHED IN POSITION CAUSING THE GEAR SHIFT TO MOVE EVEN IF BUMPED. IF DRIVING THIS COULD CAUSE A CRASH RESULTING IN INJURY, OR DEATH. WHEN GEAR SHIFT BUTTON IS PUSHED IN IT PREVENTS THE CAR FROM COMPLETELY TURNING OFF AND KEY FROM COMING OUT. THIS POSES A RISK OF THEFT.

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CAR GAVE ME A CODE OF U0101 AND TOOK IT TO CHEVY DEALERSHIP AND TOLD ME IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH LOST COMMUNICATION. THEY TRIED FIXING ISSUE BUT COULDN'T.

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BEGAN OVER HEATING AT SHORT DISTANCES. A/C WENT COOL RAN HOT AIR TRIED TO SEE IF FREON JUST NEEDED REFILLING BUT EVEN USING ALOMST A FULL CAN STILL NOTHING. HAVING FUEL ISSUES BIG DIFFERENCE WEEKS APART FUEL ISSUES.THEN OVER HEATING, NEXT UNABLE TO HOLD COOLANT, CAR WAS RETURNED TO DEALER FOR REPAIR. STILL UNABLE TO KEEP COOLANT FROM LEAKING, WHILE DRIVING ON INTERSTATE I 95 OUT OF NO WHERE I LOOSE THE ABILITY OF SPEED THEN SHUTTERING RUNNING HOT AGAIN BLEW HEAD GASKET LOST POWER HARD TO GAIN CONTROL AND WAS ALMOST HIT 2 TIMES BY CAR BEHIND AND ON SIDE.CAR HAD TO BE PUSHED TO SHOULDER AND PICKED UP WITH WRECKER SERVICE. MECHANIC HAD TO COME TO CAR BC IT WOULDN'T STSRT. HE SAID THE GASKET IS GONE. CAR WILL NOT DO ANYTHING NOW. WILL GET RECEIPTS FROM DEALER SERVICING, WRECKER, AUTO ZONE MULT COOLANT PURCHASES, MECHANIC

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I WAS DRIVING TO WORK AND WAS COMING UP TO AN INTERSECTION I HAD TO TURN AT. I PUSHED THE BREAK PEDAL, BUT IT WAS REALLY STIFF AND DIDN'T DO MUCH. MY CAR SLID ACROSS THE ROAD INTO A WOODEN ELECTRIC POLE BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT STOP. MY CAR IS TOTALED AND NOW I HAVE TO FIGURE OUT SOME WAY TO GET A DIFFERENT VEHICLE.

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I AM UNABLE TO REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY. WHEN THE CAR IS IN PARK WITH THE IGNITION TURNED OFF, THE KEY WILL NOT RELEASE. IT USE TO HAPPEN OCCASIONALLY BUT NOW FOR THE PAST 2 WEEKS, IT HAS HAPPENED EVERY TIME I HAVE PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND TRIED TO TAKE THE KEY OUT.

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THE BUTTON ON THE SHIFTER STICKS IN. SO YOU CAN'T RELEASE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER TURNING THE VEHICLE OFF. IT ALSO STICKS IN WHILE IN GEAR (DRIVE) MAKING THE SHIFTER UNABLE TO ' LOCK' IN GEAR AND EASILY BUMPED OUT OF GEAR WHILE DRIVING.

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