What 145 owners told NHTSA about the 2012 Chevrolet Captiva

THE IGNITION SWITCH WON'T TURN COMPLETELY OFF AND THE KEYS WON'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. GM PUBLISHED A LETTER AND HAS FIXED OTHER VEHICLES, BUTSOME HAVE HAD TO PAY THE COST. THIS IS A KNOW PROBLEM, IT CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD HAVE BEEN FIXED BY THE MANUFACTURER. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR MARE THAN A YEAR.

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AT RUSH HOUR , THE DASH LIGHTS COME ON AND THE CAR STOPS DEAD. NO POWER AT ALL. WE WERE ABLE TO GET IT OFF THE ROAD, BUT IT WAS DARK AND WITH NO ELECTRICAL WORKING, COULD NOT USE THE FLASHERS. WAS ALMOST HIT SEVERAL TIMES BY UNCARING DRIVERS. EVEN YELLED AT. NO POWER TO THE CAR AT ALL.

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HAVE OWNED THE CAR LESS THAN 1 YEAR, IT HAS 57000 ON IT.. STARTED WITH TURNING SIGNAL DISENGAGING THE CRUISE CONTROL. THEN LIGHTS COMING ON THE DASH AND THE RADIO GOING OFF. THEN HAVING IGNITION CHIME COMING ON AND THE CAR SLOWING LIKE IT WOULD STALL. DOOR LOCKS GOING UP AND DOWN AND THE CAR FEEL LIKE IT WOULD STALL, IT FINALLY DIED IN A PARKING LOT. COULD NOT REMOVE THE KEY FORM THE IGNITION. GOT TO THE DEALER.. CHANGED A FUSE BOX UNDER THE HOOD. . TWO DAYS LATER, IT JUST STOPPED BUT I HAD ELECTRIC TO RESTART. TOWED AGAIN. GM DEALER WAS GREAT AT TRYING TO FIX THIS. REPLACED A MODUAL IN THE CONSOLE OF THE CAR BY SHIFTING LEVER. CAR WAS GREAT FOR 3 DAYS, THEN CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, WENT OFF, PARKING BREAK LIGHT CAME ON AND RADIO WENT OFF.. THEN BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON AND WAS REGISTERING LOW VOLTAGE. IT IS STILL AT THE GM DEALER, THEY HAVE HAD IT HOOKED UP TO THE COMPUTER FOR 3 DAYS AND CAN NOT FIND THE CAUSE.. NICE CAR TO DRIVE WHEN IT IS RUNNING, BUT NOT RELIABLE...

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PARKING LIGHT COMES ON AND RADIO TURNS OFF EXCEPT FOR THE CLOCK, THEN TURNS BACK ON. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ONE, WENT OFF WHEN HIGH BEAMS TURNED ON. USING THE TURNING SIGNAL DISABLES THE CRUISE CONTROL. TODAY ON THE WAY TO WORK, THE BATTERY LIGHT COMES ON AFTER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OFF. CHECKING THE VOLTS ON THE DASH AND IT SHOWS THEY ARE LOW. CAR HAS BEEN TRAVELING FOR 25 MINUTES, SO ALTERNATOR SHOULD HAVE CHARGED BATTERY. GET TO WORK AND THE VOLTS ARE BACK UP TO 13.8 BUT BATTERY LIGHT STILL ON. THIS IS ONE WEEK AFTER THE CAR JUST STOPPED ( IN THE ROAD) AND NOTHING WORKED AND THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. CAR REPAIR REPLACED FUSE BOX UNDER THE HOOD THEN A MODUAL IN THE CONSOLE. CAR WAS GREAT FOR 5 DAYS, NOW NEW ISSUES HAPPENING AND SOME OF THE OLD ( RADIO AND CRUSE) CAR HAS 56000 MILES.

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PROBLEMS STARTED WITH RADIO GOING OFF. THEN LIGHTS DIMMING WHEN USING THE WINDOW SWITCH. THEN WHILE USING THE TURNING SIGNAL, THE CRUSE WOULD SHUT OFF. THEN DRIVING AT NIGHT THE LIGHTS STARTED FLICKERING THEN SEEMED TO TURN OFF. THE CAR SEEMED TO LOOSE POWER. THE BREAK LIGHT WOULD COME ON THEN GO OFF. THE SEAT BELT LIGHT AND CHECK ENGINE. THE WARNING BELL THAT SOUNDS WHILE THE KEY IS IN IGNITION WOULD GO OFF AND MESSAGES WOULD FLASH ACROSS THE RADIO AND THE INFORMATION ON THE DASH WOULD SCROLL WITH OUT YOU SCROLLING THEM. TODAY THE CAR DECELERATED IN A BUSY INTERSECTION AND THE CAR LOCKS WENT UP AND DOWN. ON THE WAY HOME, THE CAR WAS DEAD AND I COULD NOT REMOVE THE KEY. CALLED A TOW, THEY JUMPED THE CAR, IT STARTED. ON THE WAY TO THE REPAIR GARAGE, THE CAR DIED IN THE ROAD. CALLED FOR A SECOND TOW, BUT WAS ABLE TO START THE CAR BY HITTING THE EXTERNAL FUSE BOX. GOT IT TO THE GARAGE AND IT IS THERE TODAY.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. AFTER A FEW ATTEMPTS, THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED A NUMBER OF TIMES IN THE PAST AND THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START UNTIL THE NEXT DAY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE LOCAL DEALER (COOPER CHEVROLET BUICK, 1300 S QUINTARD AVE, ANNISTON, AL, 36201), BUT THEY WERE UNABLE TO DUPLICATE AND DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. IN ADDITION, THE TRANSMISSION WOULD DISENGAGE OR DISPLAY A FUEL PUMP ERROR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED OR MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 48,000.

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THE PARKING BRAKE KEEPS ON GOING ON WELL DRIVING, ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS AND FUEL PUMP NOT WORKING PROPERLY.

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VEHICLE IS PUT IN PARK AND I TRY TO TURN THE KEY TO OFF POSITION BUT THE KEY WILL NOT TURN TO OFF POSITION SO KEY CAN BE REMOVED. FURTHERMORE, GM KNOWS ABOUT THE PROBLEM AND HAS FAILED TO PLACE MY MODEL ON THE RECALL LIST ACCORDING TO INQUIRES THAT I HAVE MADE. I ALSO HAVE AN EXTENDED WARRANTY, PROTECTIVE ASSET THAT WAS PURCHASED FROM PURCHASE DEALER, BUT THEY WILL NOT COVER JUST THE IGNITION SWITCH. I NEED GM TO ISSUE A RECALL ON MY MODEL, CHEVY CAPTIVA.

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THE KEY WILL NOT TURN TO OFF POSITION IN THE IGNITION AFTER THE ENGINE IS TURNED OFF. IT STARTED NOT TURNING TO OFF POSITION SOMETIMES BUT NOW IT IS EVERY TIME. MY DEALER SAYS THAT THERE IS NOT A RECALL ON THE MODEL THAT I OWN, THE CHEVROLET CAPTIVA, 2012. ONLINE RESEARCH SHOWS THAT OTHER CAPTIVA OWNERS HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS. PLEASE HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM, BECAUSE I AM AFRAID THAT THE SYSTEM ALSO MAY HAVE THE OTHER PROBLEMS THAT CAUSES THE ENGINE TO SWITCH OFF AUTOMATIC.

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. WHILE THE CONTACT'S HUSBAND WAS DRIVING 45 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE STARTER MALFUNCTIONED AND NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE STARTER WAS REPLACED, BUT THE SERVICE ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED FOR SEVERAL DAYS AFTER THE REPLACEMENT. RECENTLY, THE CONTACT'S HUSBAND ATTEMPTED TO START THE VEHICLE, BUT IT FAILED TO START UNTIL AFTER THE STARTER WAS KNOCKED ON SEVERAL TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO STATED THAT THE CONTACT PROBABLY RECEIVED A FAULTY STARTER. SINCE THE STARTER WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY, THE MECHANIC STATED HE WOULD REPLACE IT FOR FREE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

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INTERMITTENTLY THE RADIO FIRST CUTS OFF, THEN PANEL LIGHTS COME ON (TRACTION CONTROL, CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS) TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS WORK, BUT NO SOUND. YOU LOSE POWER TO CAR AND CANNOT EVEN TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. AFTER SOME TIME, YOU CAN FINALLY GET THE KEY OUT. SOMETIMES IT'S MINUTES, SOMETIMES IT'S HOURS. THIS STARTED HAPPENING A FEW WEEKS AGO, HAPPENING FEW TIMES A WEEK. NOW, IT'S HAPPENING DAILY, EVEN FEW TIMES A DAY. WE FOUND A CHEVY FORUM ONLINE AND SHOCKINGLY THIS IS HAPPENING TO 2012 CAPTIVA'S. WHY IS THIS NOT A RECALL? THIS CAN BE FATAL TO LOSE POWER TO THE CAR IF WE ARE ON THE HIGHWAY AND LOSE FUNCTION OF THE VEHICLE

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I HAVE READ SEVERAL COMPLAINTS ABOUT CHEVY CAPTIVAS ONLINE TODAY AS I WAS SEARCHING FOR AN ANSWER FOR WHY MY CAR DIED ON ME TWICE WHILE DRIVING HOME THIS EVENING. ONCE WAS ON A HILL TURNING ONTO THE ROAD BEFORE MY HOME AND THE SECOND TIME WAS PULLING INTO MY APARTMENT COMPLEX. IF I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY OR THERE WAS A CAR COMING OVER THE HILL I COULD HAVE BEEN INJURED IN AN ACCIDENT. LATELY THE PARKING BREAK AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS HAVE BEEN COMING ON AND GOING OFF, ALSO I'VE HAD TIMES WHEN I'D GO TO START MY VEHICLE IT WOULD ACT AS IF THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED A YEAR TO YEAR AND A HALF AGO SO I DON'T SUPPOSE THAT'S THE PROBLEM. ALSO THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS OFTEN FLICKER. WITH ALL OF THE COMPLAINTS ON THESE PROBLEMS I FEEL THERE IS SOMETHING REALLY WRONG WITH THE CAPTIVA AND A RECALL SHOULD BE ISSUED TO ADDRESS THE PROBLEMS DUE TO SAFETY CONCERNS. I HAVE THREE CHILDREN AND I DON'T WANT TO WORRY ABOUT MY CAR DYING WHILE DRIVING THEM TO OR FROM DAYCARE AND SCHOOL AND US GETTING IN AN ACCIDENT.

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UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THIS IS HAPPENING MORE AND MORE FREQUENTLY. STARTED ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO. NORMALLY YOU HAVE TO RUN THROUGH THE GEARS SEVERAL TIMES OR RESTART. NOW IT'S MUCH HARDER AND TAKES LONGER TO GET THE KEY OUT. ALSO, THERE ARE SIGNIFICANT ELECTRICAL ISSUES. WE REPLACED A THE BATTERY AND STILL HAVE THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS: THE PARKING BRAKE LIGHT TURNS ON, STABILITY-TRACK LIGHT COMES ON, A/C GOES ON AND OFF AND BLINKERS, CRUISE AND ALL DASH LIGHTS COME ON AND OFF WHILE DRIVING, AS WELL AS RADIO GOING ON AND OFF. WHEN THIS GOT REALLY BAD, I UNHOOKED THE BATTERY AND THEN EVERYTHING SEEMED TO RESET AND WAS GOOD FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS BUT STARTED AGAIN. THIS STARTED ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO BUT THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE OPERATING THE VEHICLE, THE EMERGENCY PARKING SIGNAL LIGHT WOULD SUDDENLY ILLUMINATE BEFORE THE VEHICLE SLOWED DOWN AND STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER JIM LUPIENT CHEVROLET LOCATED IN BLOOMINGTON, MINNESOTA WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BODY CONTROL MODULE FAILED. THE BODY CONTROL MODULE WAS REPLACED BUT THE FAILURE REOCCURRED 2 MONTHS LATER. IN ADDITION, IN 2013 THE POWER STEERING FAILED WHILE DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND THE FAILURE WAS REPAIRED. NO FURTHER INFORMATION WAS AVAILABLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 10,000.

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MY 2012 CHEVY CAPTIVA SPORT SHUTS OFF WHILE I'M DRIVING IT! MY RADIO TURNS OFF AND ON, SO DOES MY A/C. MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION, ALL DASHBOARD LIGHTS COME ON, DIES COMPLETELY. WE'VE REPLACED THE BATTERY QUITE A FEW TIMES WITHIN A TWO YEAR PERIOD. IT IS NOT THE BATTERY. WE TOOK IT IN TO A CERTIFIED CHEVY DEALERSHIP FOR DIAGNOSTIC TEST WHICH ENDED UP WITH ZERO RESULTS. SUPPOSEDLY THE CAUSE OF THESE ISSUES CANNOT BE FOUND. MY CAR HAS DIED OUT ON ME WHILE I'M DRIVING! I NEED ANSWERS OR SUGGESTIONS A.S.A.P. GM IS NOT BEING COOPERATIVE. I AM SO SCARED TO DRIVE MY ONLY CAR!

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CAN NOT REMOVE KEY WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK MOST OF THE TIMES NOW

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MY CAPTIVA HAS APPROX 40,000 MILES ON IT, IT RANDOMLY WILL NOT START, THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED I CALLED AAA, THEN WHILE WAITING FOR TRIPLE AAA, I TRIED IT AGAIN AND IT TURNED ON. IT RANDOMLY HAPPENS AND WHEN I PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, I CANNOT GET THE KEY OUT AND IT GETS STUCK. THIS HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES. ALSO, THE RADIO RANDOMLY DOESN'T WORK OR, RANDOMLY ALL THE STATIONS ARE CHANGED, THE REMOTE KEY OPENER DOESN'T WORK WHEN ALL THIS IS HAPPENING AS WELL. IN 2015 THE AC WAS NOT WORKING, IT TOOK THREE DIFFERENT REPAIR SHOPS TO FINALLY FIX IT, THE BATTERY HAS ALSO BEEN REPLACED. THIS MORNING THE KEY GOT LOCKED IN, NEVER RETURNED TO BEING ABLE TO START. WHEN I CALLED DEALERSHIP TO TELL THEM I'M HAVING IT TOWED IN THEY SAID THE CAR HAS TO BE SHOWING THE "SYMPTOMS" BEFORE THEY CAN DO ANYTHING ABOUT IT, SO TODAY SINCE IT NEVER WENT BACK TO NORMAL AND THE KEY IS STILL STUCK IN IGNITION I AM HAVING IT TOWED IN. I'M ASSUMING ITS ELECTRICAL RELATED, I SURE HOPE THE AIR BAGS AREN'T AFFECTED BY ALL THIS, IT'S BAD ENOUGH NEVER KNOWING IF THE CAR'S GOING TO START OR NOT. *TR

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE KEY WAS JAMMED IN THE IGNITION. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE DEALERSHIP WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 94,934. UPDATED 10/26/16*LJ *TR

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE BATTERY CABLES BECAME INOPERABLE AND THE VEHICLE LOST POWER. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT BOTH THE NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE CABLES TO THE BATTERY FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 33,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

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THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND WOULD NOT GO OFF. AFTER HAVING IT CHECKED BY A LOCAL CERTIFIED MECHANIC, IT WENT OFF BUT CAME BACK ON DAYS LATER. THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND I COULD NOT GET THE KEY OUT OF THE SWITCH. I CALLED AAA AND HAD IT TOWED TO VICTORY CHEVROLET IN CHARLOTTE, N.C. THEY KEPT THE CAR FOR OVER ONE WEEK AND KEPT LOOKING FOR SOMETHING UNTIL THEY REPLACED MOST OF MY ELECTRICAL PARTS. WHEN I ASKED HOW MUCH THIS WOULD COST, I WAS ASKED IF I HAD A PRICE IN MIND. I SAID, "I DON'T WANT TO PAY THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS." HE SAID, "YOU HAVE A LOT OF PROBLEMS." HE CONTINUED TO FIND MORE?? AND BEGAN TO TELL ME A NUMBER OF THINGS. THREE YEARS AGO, I HAD A TRAILER HITCH INSTALLED AND HE TRIED TO BLAME MY PROBLEMS ON THAT. I HAVE NEVER USED THE HITCH AND HAVE NEVER HAD ANY TROUBLE WITH THE FOLKS WHO INSTALLED IT, AS I HAVE DONE BUSINESS WITH THEM IN THE PAST. AFTER A PERIOD OF OVER ONE WEEKS TIME, THE SERVICE MAN CALLED ME WITH A PRICE FOR THE REPAIRS OF ALMOST 2500 DOLLARS. I FEEL THIS WAS AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT AND FEEL THAT THEY WERE MILKING ME FOR WHATEVER THEY COULD GET. THE STEERING WHEEL WOULD ALSO LOCK UP AND NOT ALLOW ME TO TAKE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION, CAUSING ME TO HAVE IT TOWED EARLIER TO THE DEALERSHIP. I FEEL ROBBED BY THE DEALERSHIP AND WILL NEVER GO BACK THERE FOR ANYTHING. I WILL FIND ANOTHER KIND OF CAR FOR MY PERSONAL AND BUSINESS LIFE. I WAS HAPPY WITH MY CAPTIVA WHEN I BOUGHT IT AND BRAGGED ABOUT IT TO EVERYONE BUT ALL OF THAT HAS CHANGED . WE RESEARCHED THIS CAR AND FOUND MANY COMPLAINTS ON YOUR WEB-SIGHT. WHY HAS THIS PROBLEM NOT BEEN CORRECTED OR RECALLED? I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN A CHEVROLET PERSON, PREFERRING THEM OVER OTHERS BUT WILL CONSIDER SOME OTHER CAR IN THE FUTURE. IS THIS YOUR FAULT? I THINK SO AND HOPE YOU WILL CORRECT THE PROBLEM IN THE NEAR FUTURE.

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THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED ON AND WE STARTED DRIVING AND THEN CAR IT ACTED LIKE IT WAS GOING TO DIE OUT, AND WE SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF AND TURNED IT BACK ON AGAIN. THEN AFTER WE WERE DRIVING THE CAR IT STOPPED AND LOCKED UP ALL THE DOORS KEYS NOTHING WORKED AS WE WERE DRIVING RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE INTERSECTION. THE POLICE AND TOW TRUCK WERE CALLED AND THE TOW TRUCK DRIVER GOT THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION AND HE GOT THE VEHICLE TO START AGAIN. THEN WE DROVE TO A NEARBY GAS STATION AND IT COMPLETELY SHUT OFF AGAIN WHEN WE WERE ENTERING THE GAS STATION WHILE DRIVING THE VEHICLE. WE ONLY HAD THE VEHICLE FOR 4 DAYS UNTIL IT DID ALL THIS WHILE DRIVING. THE TOW TRUCK DRIVER TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE IT CAME FROM. IT WAS AT THE DEALERSHIP FOR 5 DAYS FROM THE 15TH OF JULY WENT THE TOW TRUCK BROUGHT IT THERE UNTIL THE DEALERSHIP TOLD US IT WAS OK TO COME PICK THE VEHICLE BACK UP ON JULY 20TH. THEY EXPLAIN TO US THAT THEY COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE AS TO WHY THIS ALL HAPPENED. IF IT HAPPENS AGAIN TO BRING IT BACK.

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THE CAR WILL NOT START, KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. WE HAVE JUMPED IT NUMEROUS TIMES AND FOR NO REASON THE CAR WILL NOT START AGAIN. THE BATTERY WAS GOOD, HAD IT CHECKED. 4TH TIME SINCE THE START OF 2016. RIGHT NOW THERE IS NO, POWER , I CAN'T EVEN GET THE INDOOR LIGHTS ON. IT IS GOING BACK TO THE MECHANIC. THE CAR WAS STATIONARY, (IN MY CAR PORT).

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CANNOT REMOVE KEY WHEN CAR IS TURNED OFF. HAVE TO RESTART THE CAR TO GET THE KEY OUT. I SEE THIS IN AN ONGOING PROBLEM WITH CHEVROLETS OF ALL MODELS!

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MY CAPTIVA DID NOT WANT TO START. THE KEY WAS LOCKED IN THE IGNITION. ALL THE LIGHTS WERE OFF AND THERE WAS NO LIGHTS ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. I DISCONNECTED THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FOR A MINUTE AND THEN PLUGGED IT BACK ON TO THE BATTERY. WHEN I WENT TO OPEN THE DOOR THE HORN STARTED HONKING AND ALL THE LIGHTS CAME ON. I DEACTIVATED THE ALARM WITH THE REMOTE ON THE KEY BUT ACCIDENTLY HIT THE LOCK BUTTON. I STATED THE VEHICLE AND WENT TO CLOSE THE HOOD. BUT WHEN I WENT TO OPEN THE DOOR THE DOORS HAD LOCKED AND MY VEHICLE WAS RUNNING. I HAD TO BREAK THE WINDOW BECAUSE MY YEAR OLD BABY WAS IN THE CAR. MY WIFE COMPLAINED THAT THE RADIO WILL SOME TIMES TURN OFF AND THE INSTRUMENT LIGHTS WILL COME ON. ONE IS THE TRACTION CONTROL NEED TO BE SERVICED AND ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON. ALSO THE SERVICE LIGHT WILL TURN ON. ALSO THE LIGHTS INSIDE THE VEHICLE WILL DIM AT TIMES. MY WIFE ALSO COMPLAINED THAT THE VEHICLE WILL STALL ON HER AND SHUT OFF ON HER ONCE. SHE WAS IN THE PARKING LOT OF THE CHURCH WHEN THE VEHICLE STALLED AND STOPPED ON HER. I HAVE READ FORUMS AND CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS OF OTHER CAPTIVA SUV'S HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. ONES SUGGESTING THAT ITS THE BATTERY CABLES. PLEASE INVESTIGATE THE PROBLEM BECAUSE IT COULD BE A REAL PROBLEM IF THESE VEHICLES START TO STALL ON BUSY HIGHWAYS. REGARDS [XXX] PARTS OF THIS DOCUMENT HAVE BEEN REDACTED TO PROTECT PERSONALLY IDENTIFIABLE INFORMATION PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).' *PM

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KEY STICKS IN IGNITION AND WILL NOT COME OUT WHEN IN PARK. AT TIMES CAR WILL NOT EVEN SHUT OFF. IGNITION WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. LESS THAN 3,000 MILES AND IT IS DOING IT AGAIN. KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION UNLESS YOU RESTART THE CAR. HAVE MOVED THE SHIFTER AND STEERING WHEEL AND PUSHED THE KEY IN AS ADVISED BY DEALERSHIP. STILL NOT WORKING. ALSO, STABLITRACK AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS COME ON PERIODICALLY WHILE DRIVING, CAUSING THE CAR TO JUMP AND BUCK. DEALERSHIP ADVISED TO TURN OFF TRACTION CONTROL, BUT WHILE THE LIGHTS ARE ON AND THE CAR IS JERKING, YOU CANNOT DEACTIVATE. DEALERSHIP SAYS IT IS AN ENGINE MISFIRE PROBLEM BUT NOT SIGNIFICANT ENOUGH TO WARRANT TAKING CAR APART TO FIX.

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