What 731 owners told NHTSA about the 2011 Chevrolet Cruze Limited

ENGINE POWER REDUCED LIGHT COMES ON, CAR IDLES ROUGH, LIKE IT IS GOING TO SHUT OFF. WHEN INITIALLY TAKING OFF CAR PUTTS LIKE IT IS NOT GETTING GAS. CAR ACTS LIKE IT WILL STALL WHILE DRIVING AND DURING IDLING. STABILITY SERVICE TRACTION LIGHT COMES ON PERIODICALLY AND ENGINE RMPS INCREASE. HAD CAR LOOKED AT IN CASE IT WAS O2 SENSOR, BUT WAS TOLD BY MECHANIC THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE. ISSUE HAS BEEN OCCURRING SINCE MAY 2018. THERE ARE 126K MILES ON THE CAR. CAR HAS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED. I DRIVE 45 MINUTES TO WORK, 5 DAYS A WEEK. I HAVE YOUNG CHILDREN THAT I TRANSPORT IN THE VEHICLE. CAR FEELS UNSAFE.

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SEAT MOVES AND CLANKS WHEN GOING OVER A BUMP OR RAILROAD TRACKS. CAN FEEL SEAT MOVING.

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DRIVERS SIDE HEATED SEAT SHUTS OFF AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE.

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THE TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING, LAGGING AND NOT ENGAGING. WHEN PUTTING THE CAR IN DRIVE IT MAY LAG BEFORE FINALLY GOING INTO GEAR. WHEN SHIFTING GEARS AUTOMATICALLY, IN MOTION, THE CAR WILL LAG BETWEEN GEARS AND WILL ABRUPTLY GO INTO GEAR AFTER A LAG CAUSING THE CAR TO JUMP.

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"TAKATA RECALL" MY CAR IS SHUTTING OFF THEN POWERING BACK UP BY ITSELF.. SEEMS LIKE SOMETHING IS STUCK READING A CODE OF P0234

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VEHICLE WAS ON HIGHWAY GOING TO LEXINGTON KY FROM LOUISVILLE KY. CAR BEGIN TO SMOKE. HOSE THAT WAS SUPPOSEDLY FIXED ON RADIATOR WAS RIGGED AND OIL SPILLED FROM THE HOSE CAUSING IT TO GO INTO ENGINE. ENGINE OVERHEATED WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY. ENGINE DIED. HAD TO GET CAR TOWED FROM ONE CITY TO THE NEXT. GOT STRANDED IN ANOTHER TOWN BECAUSE COULD NOT OBTAIN A RENTAL CAR BECAUSE THEY WERE CLOSED. SINCE 2016 I HAVE SPENT OVER $7000 ON GETTING THE SAME ISSUES OR RELATED ISSUES FIXED. I HAVE SPENT OVER $5000 IN RENTAL CARS AND I STILL OWE $9000 ON MY CAR WHICH I PURCHASED FROM BALES AUTOMALL/BACHMAN IN JEFFERSONVILLE INDIANA IN 2014 WITH ON 28,000 MILES. I HAVE KEPT MY SERVICES UP TO DATE ON THE VEHICLE AND HAVE DOCUMENTATION FOR THAT. IT SEEMS ONCE I BEGIN TO GET OIL CHANGES AT THIS LOCATION MY CAR BEGIN TO DECLINE. I WOULD BE TOLD THAT I HAD ONE PROBLEM, THEY WOULD FIX IT, AND THEN SOMETHING ELSE WOULD HAPPEN. IN ADDITION, I HAVE A WITNESS WHO IS A FAMILY MEMBER WHO IS EXPERIENCING THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH THE SAME YEAR AND MODEL CAR THAT SHE OWNS. I SEE HER GOING THROUGH THE SAME DOWN SPIRAL STEPS WITH HER CAR AS I DID. IT IS ALMOST LIKE CLOCKWORK. I HAVE READ CONSUMER REPORTS ABOUT THESE VEHICLES AND NONE HAVE BEEN POSITIVE. IN FACT, MANY WHO HAVE A TURBO ENGINE WILL OR HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS SAME ISSUE. THE CAR IS A LEMON... IT NEEDS TO BE RECALLED!! IT IS UNFAIR THAT I PURCHASED A CAR THAT WAS NO GOOD AND THAT ONLY RAN GOOD FOR TWO YEARS BEFORE HAVING TO REPLACE THE TURBO TWICE AND THE ENGINE. LET ME REITERATE.. I STILL OWE $9000 ON THIS CAR. AT THIS POINT I AM CLUELESS AND I FEEL AS IF I WAS TAKEN ADVANTAGE OF. WHEN I REPORTED THIS TO THE BBB;GMC AND OTHER SOURCES THEY LED ME ON FOR WEEKS KNOWING THAT THEY WOULD NOT ASSIST IN THE MATTER. BECAUSE OF THIS WHOLE FIASCO I HAVE ANXIETY IN WHICH I AM TAKING MEDICATION. PLEASE HELP DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO

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TAKATA RECALL, I HAVE A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE. MY TURBO IS HAVING UNDERBOOST FAILURE AND NEEDS REPLACED. I CAN NO LONGER INCREASE SPEED WHILE DRIVING ON THE ROAD TO PASS CARS OR GO UP HILLS, I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL OTHER CHEVY CRUZES WITH THE SAME YEAR BEEN RECALLED FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN I TYPED MY VIN NUMBER IN NOTHING POPPED UP. SO WHY DOESN'T MY CAR QUALIFY ?

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHEN RELEASING THE BRAKE PEDAL, THE VEHICLE ABRUPTLY JERKED AND SHOOK. WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS COMPLETELY RELEASED, THE VEHICLE JERKED WITH FORCE AND SHOOK. THE CONTACT HAD TO WAIT A FEW SECONDS FOR THE VEHICLE TO STOP JERKING AND SHAKING IN ORDER TO ENGAGE THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. THE FAILURE WAS EXPERIENCED EVERYDAY AND THE STABILITY CONTROL, TRACTION CONTROL, AND CHECK ENGINE INDICATORS ILLUMINATED DURING THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE NORMALLY OCCURRED WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN 42 MPH OR LESS. HOWEVER, WHEN DRIVING 55 MPH OR MORE, THE FAILURE WAS NOT EXPERIENCED. AFTER THE JERKING AND SHAKING WOULD END, THE VEHICLE TOOK A FEW MINUTES TO REACH 55 MPH OR MORE. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

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MY 2011 CHEVY CRUZ THE TURBO WENT OUT ON IT REPLACE THE TURBO REPLACE THE MANIFOLD REPLACED THE LINE THAT GOES INTO THE OIL PAN I HAVE A VACUUM LEAK SOMEWHERE I CAN'T FIND A VACUUM LEAK THERE SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING IS BURNING UNDERNEATH THE SEATS AND SOMETIMES IT IS HARD TO SHIFT IT DOESN'T SHIFT RIGHT.ALSO THE LIGHTS ON THE FRONT THEY FLICKER AND BLANK THE SEATBELTS DON'T LIKE TO COME OUT WHEN YOU CLICKI WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD ONE DAY I WAS TRYING TO GET OUT ON THE EXPRESSWAY COMING OFF OF THE RAMP TRYING TO GET SPAYED AND THERE WAS NO POWER AND DIDN'T WANT TO GO ANY FASTER BY THE TIME I GOT HOME IT SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS WHISTLING AND NO POWER AT ALL THE TURBOS FIX BRAND NEW THE MANIFOLD BRAND NEW IT'S ALL BRAND NEW WHITE NEXT TO HIS CAR IS GIVING ME A PROBLEM AFTER PROBLEM

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IT'S BEEN GOING OFF AND ON EVERY SINCE I FIRST GOT THE CAR I SMELL A BURNING SMELL AND IT LOSES POWER IS STALLS AND THE DEALERSHIP KEEP TELLING ME IT'S JUST AIR GETTING INTO IT BUT I KNOW IT'S MY TURBO BECAUSE MY NEIGHBOR HAS ONE HER TURBO WENT OUT AND I HAVE TWO OTHER FRIENDS THAT HAS ONE AND BOTH THEIR TURBO WENT OUT AND NOW IT'S MAKING A KNOCKING NOISE AND EVERYONE THAT I HAVE LOOK AT IT SAY IT'S THE TURBO IT'S THE WASTEGATE I DON'T DRIVE MY CAR MUCH AND ONLY HAS 26,000 MILES ON IT BECAUSE I'M AFRAID TO DRIVE IT I'VE HAD IT FIXED MORE THAN 10 TIMES IT HAD A OIL LEAK WHERE WOULD CATCH ON FIRE BUT THE DEALERSHIP PUT TURBO FANS IN INSTEAD OF GIVING ME A NEW MOTOR SO IT'S STILL FLAMES UP FROM THE OIL PAN BUT THEY SAY THE TURBO FANS IS GOING TO BLOW THE FIRE OUT SO IT'S NOT GOING TO HURT ME BUT I DON'T DRIVE IT FAR BECAUSE I'M SCARED WHEN IT GETS HOT THAT'S GOING TO CATCH ON FIRE AND NOBODY WOULD GIVE ME ANYTHING FOR IT THAT'S WHY I STILL HAVE THE CAR BUT I'M WILLING TO JUST TAKE A BIG LOSS AND JUST LET THEM HAVE IT BACK THE DOORS OPEN WITHOUT TOUCHING THE CAR WITH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM THE LIGHTS ARE JUST GO OUT IN THE DASH JUST RANDOM SO I CAN'T DRIVE IT AT NIGHT I HOPE YOU CAN SEE THE OIL ON THE PICTURES IT JUST SHOOTS ALL OVER THE PLACE AND WHEN I TAKE IT TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY SAY THE RECALL IS NOT ON MY CAR THEY HAVE A RECALL ON THE TURBO AND THE VACUUM SYSTEM BUT THEY RUN MY VIN NUMBER AND SAY IT'S NOT ON MY CAR WHEN I FIRST GOT THIS CAR IT WAS QUIET IT CAUGHT ON FIRE FROM AN OIL LEAK THEY FIXED IT NOW IT SOUNDS LIKE A TRUCK YOU CAN HEAR IT THREE BLOCKS AWAY IS STALLS ALL THE TIME AND THEY TELL ME IT'S THE GAS I'M USING I SWITCH TO PREMIUM GAS AND IT STILL DOES IT THIS CAR IS JUNK I HOPE NOBODY EVER BUYS IT CHEVY SHOULD BE SHUT DOWN

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2011 CHEVY CRUZE WATERPUMP RECALL- PACE CHEVROLET HUNTINGTON, INDIANA DEALERSHIP. MY CAR OVERHEATED AFTER THE SECOND VISIT TRYING TO CORRECT THE POOR RECALL REPAIR. PLEASE SEE BELOW:. I TOOK MY 2011 CHEVY CRUZE IN FOR A WATERPUMP RECALL. THEY COMPLETED THE JOB IN 1/2 OF THE NORMAL TIME AS QUOTED ONLINE. AS SOON AS I PULLED OUT OF THE GARAGE IT SOUNDED LIKE A WATERFALL UNDER MY DASH! I PULLED RIGHT BACK IN. THE TECH LIFTED UP MY HOOD AND SAID OH IT WAS JUST BURPING THE SYSTEM AND CLOSED IT. SECOND VISIT: 2 1/2 WEEKS LATER- I BROUGHT IT BACK IN. THEY ADMITTED THAT AIR BUBBLES HAD BECOME TRAPPED IN PARTS OF MY ENGINE AND THEY "BLED" THE SYSTEM. WITHIN 5 DAYS MY COOLANT WAS EMPTY!! THIRD VISIT: THEY CALLED ME AND SAID THAT I HAD BROKEN THE COOLANT PRESSURE RELEASE HOSE CONNECTOR FROM MY MASTER MECHANIC HUSBAND BUTTING SOME WIRES WEEKS BEFORE. HOW DID I GO TWO AND A HALF WEEKS WITH IT BEING COMPLETELY FULL AND COINCIDENTLY 5 DAYS AFTER MY SECOND VISIT MY COOLANTS OUT AND EMPTY??? ADVISED THAT GM WILL NOT PAY FOR THIS AND EITHER WILL THEY. SO I'LL HAVE TO PAY $185 FOR A $30.00 PART AND 5 MINUTES OF THEIR TIME TO SWAP IT OUT. MY HUSBAND'S A MECHANIC, I WOULD NEVER GO THROUGH ALL THIS TROUBLE FOR A $30 HOSE CONNECTOR. THERE WAS NO ACCOUNTABILITY AND I AM SO DISGUSTED WITH THEM TRYING TO BLAME ME. BELIEVE ME, IF IT WAS ME I WOULD HAVE NO ISSUES REPAIRING IT RATHER THAN TO BE DISRESPECTED LIKE THAT. I ALSO HAD SQUEAKING COMING FROM MY BELT, THEY NEGLECTED TO LOOK AT THAT AND DIDN'T WIPE UP ALL THE COOLANT UNDER MY WATERPUMP UNTIL THE THIRD TIME. THESE ARE ALL THINGS THAT ARE 100% EXPECTED OF A DEALERSHIP THE FIRST TIME IN, ESPECIALLY FOR A MANUFACTURERS DEFECT. I COULDN'T BELIEVE I HAD TO WASTE ALL THAT TIME JUST FOR THEM TO DO THEIR JOB AND THEN TRY AND STICK ME WITH A CHEAP PART THAT THEY BROKE. ONCE A CAR OVERHEATS THE PIPES NEVER RETURN TO NORMAL.

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THE OIL FILTER HAUSING IS LIQUIDATING OIL EVERY TIME THAT I MAKE A OIL CHANGE

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ON DECEMBER 30, 2017 MY SON WAS DRIVING HOME,WE LIVE IN THE COUNTRY. SO HE STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN AND WHEN HE WENT TO TAKE OFF THE CAR WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF 1ST GEAR. THANK GOODNESS HE WASN'T FAR FROM HOME SO WAS ABLE TO VERY SLOWLY GET HERE. THE CAR HAD 111144 MILES ON IT. THE CAR HAD BEEN INOPERABLE SINCE THAT DAY. WE HAVE REPLACED THE VALVE BODY BUT THAT DID NOT HELP. TOOK IT TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP WHERE WE WERE TOLD THE TRANSMISSION ONLY HAD REVERSE AND 3RD GEAR AND THAT THE TRANSMISSION NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AFTER DOING SOME ONLINE SEARCHING I DISCOVERED MANY OTHER PEOPLE WITH THE SAME ISSUE ON THIS CAR.

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CAR DOES NOT PROPERLY ACCELERATE, SO MUCH SO THAT I NEED TO USE THE HAZARD LIGHTS TO AVOID BEING HIT BY THE CAR BEHIND ME WHEN ACCELERATING AFTER STOPPING AT A STOP SIGN OR RED LIGHT. THIS IS NOT SAFE. I HAVE SMALL CHILDREN. I DROVE 40+ MILES (CITY MILES) AND HAD NO ISSUES GETTING THERE, BUT THEN WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO TURN THE CAR ON AGAIN TO RETURN HOME, THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE SHOWED THE ENGINE GO FROM COLD TO HOT VERY QUICKLY, DISPLAYED THE MESSAGE "ENGINE HOT A/C OFF" AND IT STARTED MAKING A LOUD SQUEALING NOISE. AT THIS POINT I SWERVED THE CAR OFF THE ROAD BECAUSE MY DAUGHTER AND I FEARED FOR OUR SAFETY AND THOUGHT IT WAS GOING TO EXPLODE. I PUT THE CAR IN PARK, WE BOTH OPENED OUR DOORS AND TOOK OFF RUNNING FROM THE CAR UNTIL WE REACHED A SAFE DISTANCE. I HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED 40+ MILES TO MY HOME. THE MECHANIC CHECKED THE VEHICLE AGAIN AND FOUND THAT THE RADIATOR HAD CRACKED AND THAT THE WATER PUMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. HE REPLACED THE RADIATOR AND ALSO THE WATER PUMP, AND ENSURED THE PROPER AMOUNTS OF ALL FLUIDS. ALSO, WHENEVER I ATTEMPT TO DRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY, THE FRONT END OF THE CAR GETS VERY HOT AND THE "TRANSMISSION HOT IDLE ENGINE" MESSAGE COMES ON AND THE AC, WHICH WAS WORKING FINE, DOES NOT WORK NOW. STILL, THE MECHANIC COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE TRANSMISSION! THE HEAT FROM THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION COME STRAIGHT THROUGH THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE, WHICH WITH NO AC GETS SUPER HOT IN ADDITION TO THE 80+ DEGREE WEATHER IN CENTRAL FLORIDA (AND IT'S NOT EVEN SUMMER YET!). EVERY TIME I HAVE TO HAVE TRIED TO REFUEL THE CAR WITHIN THE PAST 2 WEEKS OF ME HAVING PURCHASED IT, THE ENGINE STALLS AND STALLS AND STALLS. IT TAKES 10-15 TRIES TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON EVERY TIME I REFUEL. IN ADDITION TO THIS, ONCE YOU ACTUALLY GET THE CAR BACK ON THE CAR JERKS WHEN PUT IN DRIVE. I HAVE TO KEEP MY FOOT ON THE GAS OR THE CAR WILL SHUT BACK OFF.

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I OWN A 2011 CHEVY CRUZE. IT HAS 67,000 MILES. ABOUT A MONTH AGO, I STARTED TO NOTICE A FEELING OF MY STEERING TAKING ON A MIND OF ITS OWN. SO JUST LAST WEEK, I WENT AND GOT NEW BRAKES, ROTORS, TIRES, FRONT END ALIGNMENT, BALANCE. COST A PRETTY PENNY, BUT NEEDED FOR SAFETY. I HAD THEM CHECK FOR FRONT END ISSUES THAT MIGHT BE RELATED TO STEERING PROBLEMS. THEY SAID THE FRONT END WAS TIGHT. TYRODS, BALL JOINTS, AXLE, ETC. THIS CONFIRMED TO ME, THAT THE STEERING ISSUE WAS FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. THERE IS ALSO A CRUNCHING SOUND IN THE STEERING, WHEN TURNING WHEEL FROM A PARKED POSITION. WELL THE STILL HAS STEERING ISSUES. ON THE STRAIGHT AWAY, IT FEELS LIKE THE TIRES ARE INDEPENDENTLY TURNING. I THEN HAVE TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL TO COMPENSATE AND CORRECT. THIS IN TURN CAUSES, OVER TURNING. THE TIRES AND THE STEERING WHEEL ARE NOT WORKING TOGETHER. THIS MAKES ME SO SCARED TO DRIVE THIS CAR. I HAVE A SMALL PASSANGER, DAILY. I ALSO DRIVE ON A 50 MILE TRIP ONCE OR TWICE A WEEK. PLEASE HELP

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I BOUGHT THE 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZ IN 2014, I USED THE CAR PRIMARILY FOR WORK SO THROUGHOUT THE FIRST FEW YEARS I DIDN'T NOTICE ANYTHING STRANGE AS IT REMAINED PARKED MOST THE TIME. WHEN I DID START DRIVING IT AS A PRIMARY VEHICLE THE FIRST ISSUE I HAD WAS THE CLUTCH AND GEAR SYSTEM SEEMED TO BE TOUCHY WHEN THE CAR WAS IN PARK, RESORTING TO ME USING THE EMERGENCY BRAKE EVERY TIME I WOULD PARK IT. AT THE TIME IT DIDN'T SEEM TO BE A BIG ISSUE AS IT BECAME A HABIT. IN 2016 SHORTLY AFTER THIS MY OIL CONSUMPTION AND TURBO FAILED, AND THE VEHICLES EXHAUST STARTED BLOWING BLUE SMOKE AND THE CAR LOST ALL POWER. AS THIS WAS A NEW CAR I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC AND HAD VEHICLES TURBO REPLACED. JUST OVER A YEAR LATER IN 2018 THE VEHICLE IS EXHIBITING THE EXACT SAME EFFECTS SUCH AS REMOVING AND REPLACING THE ECO,1.4L ENGINE, TURBOCHARGER, EVACUATE AND REPLACE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM, AND TRANSFER OF THE FUEL AND ELECTRICAL ASSEMBLIES AND ENGINE MOUNTS. I'M ALMOST CERTAIN THIS CAR IS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDS TO BE RECALLED.

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MIL P0171 CODE, REPLACED 3 VALVE COVERS BECAUSE OF THE PCV AND NOW I'VE BEEN INFORMED THE INTAKE MANIFOLD IS DEFECTIVE.

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DRIVING ALONG AT APPROXIMATELY 35MPH OUT AND SUDDENLY THE CAR LOST ALL ACCELERATION. IT WOULD GO IN REVERSE, BUT NOT FORWARD. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. ADDED SOME AUTOMATIC TRANS. FLUID AND THAT DID NOT HELP. REMOVED THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY FOR A FEW MINUTES TO "RESET". THE CAR WAS THEN ABLE TO MOVE FORWARD, BUT VERY SLOW ACCELERATION IN 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, BUT I WAS UNABLE TO GET THE CODE CHECKED BECAUSE IT WAS TOO LATE IN THE EVENING. LIMPED THE CAR 20 MINUTES HOME. ONCE IN 3RD GEAR AND ABOVE, IT RAN FINE. BUT WHEN GOING FROM A DEAD STOP, IT WOULD TAKE FOREVER TO GET OUT OF 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. ADDITIONALLY, THE DASH DISPLAY NO LONGER WOULD SHOW THE DRIVE SHIFT CONTROL DISPLAY. ONLY SHOWED "D" AND NOT M1, ETC. GOT VEHICLE HOME AND IT NOW SHIFTS VERY HARD WHEN PUT IN REVERSE.

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TAKATA RECALL, TRANSMISSION FAILURE, CAR NOT SHIFTING INTO GEARS. DRIVING ON CITY STREET AT A STOP LIGHT AND THE CAR WOULD NOT ADVANCE FORWARD, I HAD TO PHYSICALLY PUSH IT OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO LET TRAFFIC PASS. CAR WILL NOT ADVANCE IN FORWARD OR REVERSE.

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CONDENSATION ON INSIDE WINDOWS

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THE HOSE THAT CONNECTS TO THE COOLANT FOR THE AC SYSTEM ALWAYS BREAKS AND THE HEATING AND COOLING STOPS WORKING, THIS IS UNSAFE BECAUSE IT MAY CAUSE OVERHEATING OF THE ENGINE IF NOT REPAIRED.

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SMELLS LIKE IT'S BURNING, SMOKES INTO THE INSIDE. IT'S BEEN NUMEROUS TIMES IN THE SHOP BUT IT KEEPS DOING THE SAME. ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH THE DRIVER SEAT AND LIGHTING ALSO

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YOU DRIVE FOR 15 MILES GOES INTO LIMP MODE HAVE PUT 3 TECOMS IN THE CAR AND STILL DOES THE SAME THING

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TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 CHEVROLET CRUZE. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO MAKE A 3-POINT TURN, THE VEHICLE WAS SHIFTED INTO REVERSE, BUT FAILED TO ENGAGE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER FOUR ATTEMPTS, THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO SHIFT INTO REVERSE, BUT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE AND THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. ALSO, A WHISTLING SOUND WAS HEARD COMING FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROADWAY, TURNED OFF, AND RESTARTED, THE VEHICLE OPERATED CORRECTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO ADVISED THE CONTACT TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO A CHEVROLET DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AND REPAIRS. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THEY WOULD TOW THE VEHICLE TO WINTER CHEVROLET (3750 CENTURY CT., PITTSBURG, CA 94565). THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRANSMISSION FAILED AND NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 41,000. *TT *TR

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" TAKATA RECALL" TRANSMISSION FAILURE

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